180 Degree Thermostat in '78 F-100

Discussion in '1973 - 1979 Ford F100, F150, F250-F350 Truck Forum' started by subsecret, Sep 18, 2015.

< Previous Thread | Next Thread >
  1. subsecret

    I drive a 1978 F100 with a 302 and recently changed the thermostat to a 180; the old one would fluctuate between 1/3 and 2/3 of the bar. I plan to check the actual temperature with a thermocouple, but that'll be later. I currently run 10W40. The new thermostat runs at or below 1/3 of the bar.

    The owner's manual states 10W30 oil should be used, but the previous owner had the engine rebuilt and recommended the higher viscosity, though I'm not sure how much he knew about it. I put 10W40 in before I saw the oil specification in the manual.

    Because the engine runs cooler, should I move back down to 10W30 or will 10W40 work fine? No problems with oil pressure, but I'm concerned that not enough oil will get through at the lower temperature.

    Thanks a bunch.
     
    Tags:
  2. FTZ HAIC Staff Member Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    Question: Why would you want to run it cooler than factory specs? It runs less efficiently, does not gain power from it, etc.
     
  3. subsecret

    My older brother bought that thermostat online a while back. I just popped it in without thinking.
     
  4. FTZ HAIC Staff Member Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    Ok.

    If it has very good compression and high oil pressure I would stick with 10w/30. Since it's a multi-weight oil the temperature is going to allow it to adjust viscosity as needed.
     
  5. Paul Masley Founding Member

    180 is too low for a 302, even though after a while it will reach temps, just takes a while. Does the temps go up when driving? Even though I do not really trust the in dash gauges, most temps I have seen usually run 1/2 to just a little above the mark. My Vic has a heating problem that I cannot figure out, but shortly, hopefully it will be over.

    As for the oil, if I lived in a hot climate I would run the 10/40, but in a cold climate it would be 10/30. Much easier starting when the temps drop below 0.
     
  6. subsecret

    Planning to replace it with a 195 degree Stant Superstat. Even at this point the temp sticks just below 1/2 of the gauge, not 1/3 like I said.
     
  7. Paul Masley Founding Member

    I would drill a 1/8 hole in it or remove the little ball if equipped and drill it out there. Doing that lets air out of the system a lot faster and will even give a little flow when filling it.
     
  8. subsecret

    Some of the thermostats have a little valve pin that serves that purpose, but that's a great idea. It won't affect the bypass any because it's such a small hole.

    How do you feel about aftermarket temperature gauges? Are they usually accurate, or am I better off using a type K thermocouple connected to a digital display?

    Edit:

    I taped a neodymium magnet onto my top coolant hose close to the radiator connection point; this should catch any metal shavings that happen to come off the pump.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2015
  9. Paul Masley Founding Member

    A digital is better. I wish I had one, but with the problem I am having, one is on the list. I am dropping a lot of bucks into the front end and want to be sure. I just cannot figure this out though. I did not have this problem until the damn fan blade broke, I just wonder if that sensor that runs the speed is defective. I need to look in my junk and see if I kept the old shroud.
     
  10. FTZ HAIC Staff Member Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    Accuracy is also going to depend in large part to what you buy. Those cheap Sunpros I've found leave a lot to be desired, I bought one for an old clunker years ago and it was off by 10 degrees! A decent name brand like Autometer, ISSPRO, etc. you'll tend to get accurate enough results for your needs.
     
  11. Paul Masley Founding Member

    You read my mind. I have been looking at both Autometer and ISSPRO. ISSPRO does not list any digital gauges though.
     
  12. 56panelford TOTM Winner Founding Member Canadian Chapter

    I guess a 195 thermostat would be the norm?
     
  13. Beartracks Founding Member

    The problem with a 192/1295 thermo is the engine compartment gets real hot in the summer and the crud that passes for gas vaporizes. 180 is a little cold but most engines will go passed that anyway in the summer unless you have some kick butt fans and radiator. I have electric fans with an adjustable thermostat and I run the 180 in summer and switch to the 192 in the summer.
    The old Roberts/Shaw style therm is the best.
     
  14. 56panelford TOTM Winner Founding Member Canadian Chapter

    I'm just asking because I've got a 5.8 I installed in my 56 project.
     
  15. FTZ HAIC Staff Member Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    If you're getting fuel vaporization with a 192 thermostat generally something else is amiss.

    1. The radiator core isn't up to snuff and needs to be cleaned out. Or the water jackets in the engine have built up scale and it needs a good flush.
    2. The air/fuel ratio is too lean causing the engine to run hotter than it should.
    3. You don't have a shroud. In the case of e-fans you're only pulling air through where the fans are up against the radiator and not the entire radiator surface like it would with a shroud.
    4. Pressure cap is not holding the required pressure.
    5. Too high anti-freeze to water ratio. (Anti-freeze does not have the higher BTU transfer ability water does). Run 20-30% anti-freeze in the summer.
    6. Worn water pump.
    7. Bad fan clutch (when using a mechanical fan).
    8. No hose connected to air cleaner housing tube, causing engine to draw hotter air in, which results in higher exhaust temps.
    9. Spark timing too retarded (bad vacuum advance can cause this too).
     
< Previous Thread | Next Thread >
Loading...
Similar Threads - Degree Thermostat Forum Date
Thermostat flange diameter 1973 - 1979 Ford F100, F150, F250-F350 Truck Forum Sep 7, 2021
Loading...
virtuoso