1966 F100 240 6 cylinder radiator, I have been looking at the aluminum radiators and seems to be many choices. One concern I have is my truck has a small blanking piece on left side of the radiator that can be removed. I am wondering if I should get the larger radiator or not. Plus I do not know anything about which vender makes a good quality radiator for the money. Could someone share their opinion on the aluminum radiators and where to buy it?

Steve

 

I have no info for you on aluminum radiator Mfgs. As 240 was smallest engine available, no options you'd have smallest rad available. If truck is remaining stock and no engine upgrade, I'd go for the rad for the 300 six, be it aluminum or standard rad. On standard if the rad's available are 2, 3 or 4 tube cores I'd go for the largest. Most always myself, I have my original Rad re cored at a rad shop with largest core that will fit my tanks.

 

We have a couple of shops that do re-core around here. The last time I had it done was to an old British car and the cost was more than the aluminum ones, but not by much. I never liked the aluminum ones, but my son bought a car that had one and it looked like good quality.

I am still kinda stuck on which way to go on the material they are made from and the bigger would be better. At first, I thought if I get the radiator too big with this little six perhaps the engine would not warm up correctly, but they are not that much too big. I am going to get quote for a re-core this week because I do like the stock look.

GSP

 

On My 66 described below, I want the stock appearance and the original with largest tube core did the job very well. On not warming up enough or fast enough. Your thermostat will take care of that, it will warm as it should with a good working one in it. Although I believe a 195 is recommended, I use a 170 as to help with under hood temps a bit because of ethanol gas and it percolating a lot easier, causing hot restart problems. I tried lowering my float level, but on a long hard grade with my foot in it, the carb would begin to run out of gas. Sounds crazy, but the small inlet hole at the needle seat isn't much bigger than a jet. Reseting the float to the proper level eliminated that problem.

 

I took the stock 240 6 cylinder radiator in for price, and it was 295.00 for a re-core. I looked close at the stock core and was surprised it was only 18-1/4 by 18-1/4 inches and only 2 rows- plus the bottom tank was smaller probably less than 2inches thick. The guy said that is how they were made, and he knew right away what it was. My truck has a blanking plate on the driver side, and it looks to me if I took the blank out, I could fit the V8 aluminum radiator with a 26- 1/4 width core. The bolting flange has too money holes for me like the radiator could fit a wide verity. I can purchase a new copper brass for 565.00 but too much, but it would look nice.

 

Yes every radiator for the 66, no matter what engine will bolt into existing holes in the rad support frame, that's why rad for the 300 engine is what I suggested, every thing hooks up with what you have. Even if you choose aluminum, the one for the 300 six.

 

I am just throwing this out because I am not certain about the out let or in let position on the 64,65,66 or any of the 1960 radiators and cannot find a consistent picture. I got a junkyard one many years ago for my 1966 and changed the top hose. Anyways I believe the radiator with the outlets both on the passenger side is correct for the 1966 and maybe others. The one I have been using is the radiator with top on the driver and bottom tank on the passenger, but it is the smaller radiator for the 240 and I want the bigger for 300.

The reason I am going into this is the venders that sell radiators have conflicting information. I did find a copper brass for 1966 with both out lets on the passenger side, and was a little cheaper than before like 360.00 but all the others show top hose driver bottom ho #ad
se passenger. However, one vender (radiator express) list the 1964 with both outlets on the passenger and full sized.

Sorry for all the information, but anyways I think the only difference in the 64,65, 66 is in the outlets. That the basic radiator form those years will interchange. I am missing something.

Steve

 

GSP, 1965-66, 240-300 six. 61-64 different engine. By truck original 352-v8. at one time before frame off I had the original rad re-cored with prob 4 row core. When I put the 240-6 in, I bought a new rad. Inlet and outlet necks are both on passenger side. Don't know make but decal on top tank says model 433318, two other #'s didn't write down at this time. looking online to try fine that #, not found. But AutoZone listed a C318. Looks like mine, you can look, Pricey at 429.00. This rad is full width with double mounting flanges, forward for mounting and rearward for s shroud. I'll try dig out loose leaf of receipts and see if I have it with where I got it.

 

Bought my Rad from machine shop that did my engine rebuild. 1, 2302 rad, $238.00, no help with that. Again look at AutoZone C 318 and NPD F-8805-318. Both use 318 in their part# and the description matches my rad. One or both give you the physical dimensions. Pricey Yes! Maybe you can research farther than I for better deal. Look closely at AutoZone for a 20% off purchases more than $100.00 and free shipping to your door.

 

Thanks Cap for taking the time to look around, much appreciated. It seems the 1966 has some unique characteristics or changing points from the factory. I noticed the radiator support is listed different fro 66 and 65 by D. Carpenter, the Ford guy. From what I am seeing, other venders do not sell a lot of parts for 66 so not much interest, anyways the engine compartment and radiator support seem to be of similar and simple design throughout much of the 60ites.

The big online vender for radiators is “Radiator Express” and their listing for a 64 in aluminum # is SKU 221310 with 3 rows and SKU 223210 with 2 rows they are the same other than the rows-----it is weird they sell a copper brass for the 66 SKF 39199, but no aluminum for the 66--- and the 65 is totally different. Plus their Chat guy might be a machine.

The Auto Zone tip is good and their guarantee is good plus there is one right by me. I am kinda building this old truck on the cheap; it is my old work truck I bought in 1975 one owner.

My personal opinion is what is listed for 1961 to 1964 will fit the 65 and 66 also because the simple design and openness of the engine compartment. If I do go with the aluminum for the 240.00, I purchase it on eBay because of the return policy, and I could be wrong.

Thanks again steve

 

OK Steve, keep us in the loop how you make out. Share some of your project progress with us as you go along. Oh and I'm the second owner of my truck bought in the 80's .

 

1966 F100/250 2WD radiator support is different than 1965. 1961/64 is also different.

You can use a radiator from any 1966/79 F100/250 2WD as long as it's for a 240/300.

You cannot use a 1965 radiator on a 1966 because the mounting flanges are in a different location.

You cannot use a radiator from a 1961/64.

 

I replaced my radiator with one for a 76’ F150 300 6cyl in my 66’ with a 240. I ordered it from Oreileys. I had to drill 2 new mounting holes in the side pan that the radiator bolts to on the driver’s side. You can make anything work, I just made sure my lower hose was on the pass side. The upper hose on the new radiator is on the drivers side, so I made a different hose work, with a little modification of course

 

I know this is a year old thread but I think this "opinion" is relevant regardless. So long as a guy isn't "restoring" a vehicle and is rather just putting a driver together, I think it is imperative that you mount the biggest and most efficient radiator that you can securely mount in the vehicle - period! Mounting them is pretty basic and with some basic fabrication, almost anything can be made to fit. The radiator, IMHO, is one of the last things you want to skimp on. Regardless if it's a junkyard 240 or a built and turbo'ed big block, keeping it cool is your PRIMARY concern. Why even risk it? We will spend hundreds, sometimes a couple thousand dollars to convert functional drum brakes to disc because they are easier to maintain and, let's be honest, they look so much cooler, but we balk at spending $400 to $600 on a radiator that will keep the heart of the vehicle healthy and happy. That really doesn't make sense. One overheating session can ruin an engine and lead to chasing future issues or result in a replace or rebuild dilemma that is going to cost way more than $600. Don't ask me how I know.

Save yourself some frustration and, quite honestly, save yourself some money down the road by getting the biggest, most efficient rad that will fit (or can be made to fit) in your vehicle. If you ever choose to upgrade to a larger engine, and we usually do - lol, then your monster rad will still be sufficient and will likely be the last rad you ever have to buy for that vehicle. Even if you don't like the shiny aluminum look, you can still (gasp) paint it black to blend in better while still cooling your rig like a boss! Money spent here and now on the biggest, most efficient rad you can make fit is like money in the bank. The peace of mind alone is worth far more than $600. That's just my opinion, based on many years and many regrets from "shopping price" when selecting or replacing radiators in my vehicles over the years. The bottom line is that you cannot have "too much" radiator but you most definitely can have not enough. Again, don't ask me how I know. This is just the opinion of a grey old man. lol
Like my buddy Shayf always said, (about everything) "If some is good, then more is better and too much is just right!" - lol.

 

I agree with all you say, Thank You! In my situation tho not a show truck or being hung on appearance, I chose to re-core my original tanks from (I believe, long time ago) a 2 row to a 4 row core because I DID want it to look original. It was my everyday driver for 10+ years. It is now in a frame off state again. Cap.

And Welcome to FTZ, FlintMich !