1977 Ford F-150 Custome 5.8 351C questions

Discussion in '1973 - 1979 Ford F100, F150, F250-F350 Truck Forum' started by FordFairLane, Apr 4, 2023.

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  1. FordFairLane

    Hello, I am restoring a 1977 Ford F150 and was wondering if anyone could answer a few questions.

    I have replaced the oil pan, gas tank, gas lines, brake lines, brakes, brake booster, carburetor, distributor, wires, plugs, head gasket, valves and springs, radiator, hoses, belts, steering coupler, and probably more I can't think of off the top of my head.
    Steering is still loose as hell. The only thing I can think of is the linkage but wanted to make sure that sounds right. And if so any youtube vids on how to or step by step guides would be appreciated.
    Thing backfires at about 20mph when changing gears. The only thing I can think if is the throttle lever is missing and I had to jury rig it together. Anyone know what size or have a link to a part number for that? I wam worried I am going to get upside down on this thing the way I am pouring money into it. What is the fair market value for these things?

    Thank you in advance!


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  2. RP67F100

    Welcome to a restoration project. Read an article recently that it was better to buy the best, most expensive classic you can afford. Because in the end you will spend more on restoration parts.
    But what fun is buying a completed project?
    Jacking up the front of truck and having someone watch steering wheel for movement while moving tires back and forth, also watching for movement or lack of in suspension components. Also the steering gear box could be worn, the slightest movement of steering wheel should cause movement of the pitman arm and then tie rods
    As far as the backfiring, is the EGR valve connected/ working ? I have known it to cause it
     
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  3. RP67F100

    A
    lso Haggerty Ins has a free evaluation service
     
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  4. FordFairLane

    I never thought about the Steering gear box. I am like 8K into the truck. I think as is I am probably a little ahead. Looking on line trucks in worse shape are going for 8k and don't even run. The engine runs like a top now so that is all cleared up. Now if I can get it to drive down the road without feeling like I am going to die is the next hurdle. I think the big mud tires don't help and might get a second set of rims and tires for road driving. I found a new linkage that is adjustable for $380. I don't think it includes the pitman arm so probably another $100 on top of that. Then if I have to do a new steering box it looks like that is another $300. Then if everything is good finally I can start on the rust.
     
  5. RP67F100

    There should be an adjustment on the top of the box, a jam nut with adjusting screw in the middle. Loosen the nut and run the screw down till it is a little snug ( don’t over tighten) then lock the nut . See if that helps. Also a steering stabilizer on the tie rod helps a lot
     
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  6. iicap

    Judging by the picture the truck appears to have a suspension rise/lift. If the Pitman arm is stock and or the stabilizer/tracking link is in it's stock position. Thinking you would have some serious bump steer. Cap
     
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  7. BKW Founding Member

    Has the engine been swapped? 351C only installed in 1970/74 Ford/Merc Passengers and Ranchero's.

    1977/79 F100/350: The only 351 available was the 351M
     
  8. FordFairLane

    Likely. I am trying to figure out the front linkage now. Looking at parts that are supposed to fit don't look right. But the 1978-1979 draglink set looks to be perfect. I have a feeling the previous owner had changed some thing up on it.
     
  9. iicap

    On drag link and stabilizer/tracking bar. A visual, looking under, both items should be close to parallel with the front axle. IF THEY or EITHER, are going down hill to the right front wheel, you probably have a suspension lift and definitely will have bad bump steer.

    Example Given, If a 3" lift, the Pitman arm and the frame bracket have to be 3" lower, than stock for the truck to have normal handling characteristics. You should verify before going to by later other components. Others have been none to, just add taller front springs and spacer blocks between rear springs and axle.

    Also, with engine running at idle, reach in thru the window and move the steering wheel slightly back and forth of center while watching the left front wheel. You should see immediate movement of the wheel with no wasted movement of the steering wheel. If wasted movement, you have 1, out of adjustment steering box or 2, one or more of the drag link, tie rod, ball sockets are worn. Have a second person or you look as the steer wheel is moved back and forth to see where the wasted movement is. You have just inspected all your steering components, EXCEPT the kingpins, for excessive wear and wheel bearing adjustment. Cap
     
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  10. iicap

    Apologies, forgot it was 4X4, no kingpins, upper and lower ball joints at steering knuckles.
    Bad Cap
     
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