Every now and then when I'm at a stop waiting on a red light my F150 will stall out. After about 2-3 cranks on the starter it will start up and driving normally for a while. It never does it driving and doesn't stumble. I checked for codes but there aren't any.

 

When it dies does it sputter or just quit? How much fuel is in the tank? Does it happen when the tank is full or empty? it the truck hot or cold. Just questions to think about.

 

Is there a difference if the engine is cold or hot?

 

Good questions from the prior 2 posts.
Adding to the list of questions;
When was the last time the fuel filter or air filter was changed?

 

Sorry dropped my laptop and killed it. I got a new one this week. When it stalls it sputters like it was running out of gas then stumbles then quits. Does it hot or cold. The last couple times I had a shop change the fuel filter and I never checked to make sure they did it. I've been driving my beater since I can't rely on the truck right now and my wife's been driving the 2010 most times. I think I'll try changing the fuel filter myself and see if it takes care of it.

 

It maybe good to check the fuel pressure too if the new filter didn't help.
Did you have this in the shop , or any other repair prior to all this "stalling" issue started?

So this only really does this when it idling?

 

It stumbles sometimes like a misfire and only stalls when stopped. I had it at a shop some months back for basic maintenance because I was busy. Picked up a fuel filter today and will get that done tomorrow.

 

Sounds good TK hopefully that takes care of it. Changing the fuel and air filter is just good maintenance & is the simple and easy stuff to handle.

IF... it does not & considering that it does it on a idle. Then I'd also look at the IAC ( Idle Air Control) module. This is located on the back side of the upper intake. This can be removed and cleaned, ( good ole WD40 works well here, carbon cleaner is a bit too harsh), inside there is a little rod that needs to move freely, Spray liberally to clean to loosen carbon deposits making sure the little rod moves freely, repeat as necessary, let dry and reinstall. That said, the IAC can be removed by itself, but it is a booger. Myself Have had better success removing the whole Throttle Body Housing (TBH) & the IAC comes with it, thereby, giving better access to the IAC. Another reason is that with the TBH off, there is a couple of internal EGR ports in the TBH that also can get carboned up over time and can result in poor runability as well. So cleaning those up may offer some improvement too. It is not bad to do ,I think the last time I did it, it took me 2-3 hrs