460 No Spark 1980 F350

Discussion in '1980 - 1986 Ford F150, F250 and F350 Truck Forum' started by Check, Jan 28, 2018.

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  1. Check

    The engine came out of something else I think, but it's a 460 with the large diameter distributor, electronic ignition. I was plowing snow, wide open throttle in 4WD low range and it just died. A few days ago it just died but I was able to get it restarted a few minutes later and it ran fine for a few miles.

    Anyway, the coil has 12 volts on the plus terminal with the key on. OHMs are 10K secondary to primary, 10K plus terminal to secondary and 2 ohms plus terminal to primary.

    Is the coil bad? any other ideas?

    Thanks in advance.
     
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  2. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    Check for trigger signal to the coil.
     
    Check likes this.
  3. Check

    Thanks!
    I'm in over my head already. Is that something that can be done with an ordinary volt-ohm meter?
     
  4. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    Yes, analog is easier to see, depending on the meter. A test light can be used.
     
    Check likes this.
  5. Check

    Thanks! Do I test the plus terminal or the minus terminal? IIRC, the minus terminal is a couple hundred volts. I think I have an old analog VOM around here somewhere. I do have attest light but that's only good for 12 volts.
     
  6. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    I'm not talking the kv side. That's easy. Hold the coil wire close to something metal and check for spark while someone cranks the engine.
    Check across the power and ground connection at the coil. You should see a pulse. If pulse and no spark from the coil, the coil is bad. If no pulse, the problem is in the module, distributor, or wiring.
     
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  7. Check

    Thanks, I think I understand now. I already checked for spark at the coil secondary (middle) terminal while cranking with key on and remote start switch. There was none. I will check for pulse at the plus terminal. I assume that means a voltage drop. The inside of the distributor has surface rust, but I didn't see anything that would short it out.
     
  8. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    Check for pulse on the negative side. The side not hot key on. .....
     
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  9. Check

    I'm not sure I understand. If the negative (primary) side has a couple hundred volts (I really don't know how much), wouldn't that fry a 12 volt test light ? I haven't found my analog voltmeter. I doubt a digital would tell me anything at that speed.
     
  10. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    The only high voltage comes out of the coil wire. I'm talking about the two small wires. They are only 12 volts ( or battery voltage) .
     
    Check likes this.
  11. Check

    OK thanks. I thought that the negative (primary) terminal had several hundred volts on it.
     
  12. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    That's the coil wire. Several THOUSAND volts.
    :woot:
     
  13. Check

    On older vehicles with points, the plus terminal is 12 volts, the minus terminal is a couple hundred volts and the large center terminal is several thousand.
    I tried the test light on the minus terminal while cranking and it blinked with the beat, so I purchased a new coil. Will go down there and try it out later.
     
  14. roscoe 0202

    I don't know when the changed to tfi but both the early electronic ignition and tfi mounted on the distributor are problematic I think you probably have the one with the square module on the fender on drivers side probably that unless you blew the coil with twelve volts should be reduced.
    roscoe
     
  15. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    TFI is mid 85, completely by 86
     
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