I was reloading my computer and fond some of the old picture of my 66 4x4. The trucks rebuild started after my oldest son hit a deer and rolled it over in a bar ditch:
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After the rebuild:

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Beautiful truck Allen, you did a wonderful job at restoring it and I like the colors.

 

Ken, we had to re body the truck, the top was a mess; no way for me to fix!!

 

Thanks John, the green on the truck has blue pearl and the chrome strips are painted on. Never had chrome on it.

 

This is how I put the power steering on the 66 4X4:

I used a box out of a 87 Toyota 4x4. When I got the box, I also took the P/S lines that run from the pump to the box.
I removed the driver side fender and inter fender for better access.
1. Remove the old steering box and the steering link that runs from the box to the drag link.
2. Place the new box in the same place as the old one. mark the holes that need to be drilled, drill and tap into the frame, or drill all the way and put in a bolt and nut.
3. On The new box, the pitman arm has a stud, where as the old pitman arm has a hole to hook the box to the drag link. I used a piece of a drag link that came from a Chevy truck that had a hole in it, the hole has to fit the stud on the pitman arm. The steering link that came off, I cut that in half and threaded the the Ford piece and the Chev piece together using left and right treads and a turn-buckle off a tie rod end, I got from the tie rod end off the Chev. That way the length is adjustable. Sense I had the drag link off that links the wheels together on my truck, I cut off the non replaceable tie rod end and threaded a new new and turn-buckle. Now I don't have to replace the whole thing when the end goes bad again. You do not have to do that for this conversion.
4. I used a P/S pump off a 75 F100 Ford truck. The P/S lines that came from the Toyota, you will need to cut the pressure line fitting off at the pump end and replace it with a SAE fitting that fits the Ford pump.
I mounted the cooling loop with the horn on the drivers side.
5. I had to cut the steering shaft @ 3" and welded the end back on. Have someone that is a GOOD welder do this. The input shaft on the Toyota is smaller, so when you put in coupler on, I cut the slit on the clamp that holds the steering shaft to the coupling and tighten the clamp down.
6. I used a pulley off a 64 Galaxie, I just had one, but when you pull a pump off at the wrecking yard get the P/S pulley off the crankshaft.
Let me know if you need anything else.

 

This truck is OUTSTANDING!

 

Thank you!!

 

Well the truck started having a battery discharge problem; I pulled the alternator out to check it and the wiring was crumbling. Rewired the alternator harness and installed a new alternator and recharged the battery. Will see this morning if my discharge problem is fixed!

 

Let's hope so Allen

 

Well that was not it!! But the wiring is fixed!! Back to step one; start tracing out the rest of the truck...

 

Hope you're able to locate the problem Allen, I have an issue too I need to solve hopefully over the winter but won't know until next spring if it's been solved, I just parked the panel for the winter.

 

The heating problem John? I also have all winter to figure this one out. Electrical is not my strong suit...

 

No I think I have the heating problem solved, I still need to get my cruise control working, I didn't feel like tearing the console out to get at the wiring because I was happy enough just to drive it as is. We are thinking of taking a long trip in it next summer so would be nice to have the cruise working. I'm also going to have it tuned up on a dyno in the spring, it's running rich and the timing is not quite right either. I'm getting some pinging on some of the hills and as much as I play with it I can't seem to get it right. I'll pay the doctor I guess in the spring.