Restoring my F-150 and needed to replace front springs to eliminate sag and level out the truck a bit with a taller spring. I purchased two SuperLift coil springs (Part Number: SLF-112) from Summit for my 1978 Ford F-150 2WD with 7.5L engine. That part number has been verified to fit my truck via the Summit and SuperLift vehicle lookup/fitment checks. However, the bottom of the coil spring does not match the stock spring and the washer that held the stock spring to the radius arm/beam axle, does not hold the spring in place because the 112 spring opening is too large and is not circular as is the stock spring. (new coil on left if it isn't obvious). #ad


Interesting that the stock spring really wasn't all that tight between the washer and lower cup on the radius arm bolt. The nut holding the top washer was extremely tight however.

I did install the spring as it is tight once I reconnected the shock. My guess is that it won't matter because the spring cannot go anywhere especially after compressing it to install the shock absorber. The new spring is about 3" taller than the stock spring. I don't know the actual lift I'll get out of this spring at this point as the truck is still up on jack stands.

I have sent message to SuperLift to ask if there is some sort of adapter needed to secure the 112 spring to the radius arm bolt. I was hoping someone on this forum may have already dealt with this. Any advice from those who have installed taller SuperLift springs (or springs that have the same "coil" design as the SuperLift) would be greatly appreciated.

 

78Ranger
Welcome.
I would like to answer your question but have not had enough experiences with truck coil springs to correctly help you. Most of my exp. is with leaf springs..
Hopefully, someone will come along that has coil springs knowledge.
Sometimes it takes for ever to get a reply on this site.
Also, aggravating is people post a problem and they get help on here and then never reply back to say if they
EVER got it fixed...... A reply would be nice so it could others with similar problems..
OK my .02...

 

Welcome 78 Ranger. I cannot answer your actual question but, need to point out to you. With Twin Eye Beam suspension the alignment setting of Camber is engineered into the front axle of the truck by Ford. If you lift the front suspension with a taller spring you will change the Camber and have your tires wear the outside edges excessively. Correcting camber on a solid axle, you have bend the axle. Even in their most popular times, alignment shops that had the equipment, were not fond of that procedure.

My 2 cents. Consider a new pair of front spring that are stock in height and if a heavy duty option if offered get those. You might look for a set of dropped front spindles the would rise the truck by the #inches of the spindle drop. Check see if the two I suggest are available somewhere before altering your plans now. All to keep your steering geometry correct and handling good.

As per BlueOvalex, let us know how you make out, Cap

 

Hey Cap
Just a question, are you talking about the CASTER being changed. I think raising the body would not change the camber but could possibly change the caster depending the type of suspension setup.
As for the camber, they do make tapered shims to correct camber on the dana 44's..
I have one here somewhere, if I find it I will post a pic.
My .02 and your .02 still falls short of .04... LOL

 

If you look from the front of a vehicle at the tires, Camber is the tipping inward or outward of the tire, just say at the top. Perfectly straight up and down, say 12 o'clock over 6 o'clock, you would have 0(zero) Camber If the the tires tipped in at the top, Camber is negative, and you might refer to it as Knock Kneed. If tipped out, Camber is positive and you might refer to it as Pigeon Toed.

Caster also known as the Inclination of the Kingpin. Viewing the wheel as if changing a tire, the King Pin(or ball joints) is Zero Caster when Kingpin is Dead center 12 over 6 o'clock. If tipped back at top it is pPositive Caster an forward Negative Caster. Set properly it helps the steering return to center after a turn in the road. THE MOST radical caster you will ever see is on dragster, there is no time to correct steering at 200+ MPH in 7 seconds, the axle tipped way back uses the weight of the dragster to help keep the wheels straight. On a Twin Eye Beam, lowering or raising the Radius arms will change the Caster.
Cap

 

Cap,
You are correct on the caster
BUT in your original reply I understood you to say that changing the body height would change the camber and only way to correct camber was to bend the straight axle housing.......
I under the diff between camber, caster, bumpsteer....
Maybe I miss read your original post.
Will go back and re read....

 

My point was that raising the body will possibly change the CASTER not the CAMBER....

 

On your last comment raising the suspension on a Twin Eye Beam WILL change the Caster, and the Camber. A little more detail below.

I did not mean or intend/say "body height". Intent was that raising the suspension, with a longer spring would change the camber. On a Twin Eye Beam Axle, the axle swings an arc as the suspension moves up or down due to bumps in road/ body sway. Just cruising down the road the suspension would/should be at its aligned (and hopefully specked) position with good handling and tire wear. Now add two more inches of suspension height and you change the arc of the axle and the wheels/tires will be pigeon toed. Also not mentioned before, with the 2 inches of lift you now have changed the angle of the radius arms and the Caster will change and tilt forward, affecting return to center of steering and will add to constantly correcting the steering when you drive.

Please Everybody, understand, I'm not Knit Picking here, just trying to to let the OP know that these things Will change the handling characteristics of his truck. A complete kit to raise specified height would have radius arm brackets to keep caster in relationship, there are dropped front axles for lowering the front, don't know if anyone offers an axle to raise the front or a dropped axle pivot bracket to keep camber in relationship if you choose to raise it. All this is pertaining to Twin Eye Beams suspensions.

 

Hey Cap,
My APOLOGIES Mr. Cap:
I was under the impression the OP had a straight axle like a Dana 44. That is why I could not figure why the spring height would play a part in the camber..
Again, I need to pay more attention to the OP. (2WD...)
That is why I like pictures....
I see things better than I read them. LOL..
Thank you,

 

BlueOvalex, all is cool, no apology needed. I REALLY welcome comebacks about ANYTHING I comment on from anyone. Sometimes I need to be corrected. My responses are always long because I want to give as much clarity as possible and leave out the guessing about what I mean. I enjoy trying to help out, keeping the cobwebs away from what brains I have left.

 

Looking at the superlift listing, #112 springs also fit a 78-79 Bronco,which is 4WD. This would mean that they are for 4WD trucks.

 

Hey DB429SBJ, welcome to FTZ! The pic of the two springs puzzled me, but I said nothing. Looks like the bottom of old spring and top of new spring, ????

 

Hey Guys,
Have you noticed that the original OP has never replied with ANY input?
What did he actually end up doing?
Did the new taller springs work?
Just curious as to no replies

 

BOe, point well taken, he might be upset with me / us with running away with his original question. If so, my apologies 78 Ranger.

 

Hey Cap,
As I see it there was no runaway anything here, as others read the thread, all the information is usable and pertains to front end and springs discussion.
You supplied great in site for the I beam suspension and potential problems to watch for. Most of the time I learn more from others questions replies and remarks as a thread grows.
Problem on this site seems to be lack of participation, asking questions and posting information.
Again my .02 worth