New here. Might have jumped into the deep end of the pool on this project, we'll see.

I have a 1977 F150 and want, actually need, to improve the brakes. My children live in Tampa and Orlando, FL and it seems that not knowing how to drive is no deterrent to getting a drivers license there. So, in a belated attack of self preservation, I want to put better brakes on the old bruiser. In typical southern redneck fashion, if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.

After doing a pile of research, and relying some on experience, I thought it might be a good idea to have the front calipers sleeved. I had a piston stick on me in a nearby city and it was no fun. Then I started doing some reading and found that mid 1970s big Fords (Galaxie, Thunderbird) have larger pistons than F150 calipers plus steel pistons in the calipers. With a little work, and tires with good sticktion, I might just survive US19 and I4.

So, with a little background behind this, here are the brake questions:

I read that steel piston calipers do not stick like phenolic pistons. I can't answer that from personal experience, but every car I had with phenolic pistons has stuck on at least one caliper. Hard to imagine steel pistons being worse.

I found a set of Galaxie calipers with the big steel pistons (3.1" on the Galaxie vs. 2.7" on the F150) So, is it worth it to have them sleeved, or can I just get a caliper rebuild kit and swap them over? I tend to be careful with what I spend, but it is cheaper to do it right than to do it over. And the vocabulary does not get such a workout.

Next, I would like very much to swap to rear disk brakes. No real reason here since the stock rear drums work fine, I just like how quick and easy it is to change the brake pads when needed. Also, trips in heavy rain are not as exciting. Looking forward, I think that with modern disks, it might be easier to find replacement pads than brake shoes.

Thing is, the signal to noise on these makes it hard to know what to get. I do want parking brakes, and I do NOT want to move the lower shock absorber mounts on the axle housing. It seems that everyone and his uncle has a kit. Can anyone direct me to a good one, or a company who tells the whole truth about their kits?

Really, I would love to put a set of Wilwoods on both ends, but they have shunned our beloved 1970s trucks. However, if someone knows about a set of 12" to 13" four wheel disks, please let me know.

I have 17" wheels on it, so fit is not an issue, within reason.

Sorry to blather on for so long, but if we lay all the cards on the table, it saves time and confusion.

Thanks for any pointers, or tips on where to look.

Bullwinkle

 

Welcome to FTZ, I'm pretty sure others will pipe in. No authority here but............OEM brake systems are engineered for a vehicle. Enlarging your Calipher bore will require more fluid to move the piston outward, X2. So if you go bigger on caliper bore , your OEM master cylinder/brake pedal, will have to travel farther down to the floor to get the piston to move outward and you'll have a naturally lower brake pedal movement to application of the brakes.

SO to cut the chase, I would Seriosuly look at the first year Ford offered All Wheel Disc Brakes in a F-150 pick up and see, look , ask if anyone has put those components into an earlier F-150. If you find a donor truck in a junk yard/pick n pull, get everything you need from M cylinder down to the rear axle ass'y if you want to have operating emergency brake (rear axle ratio needs be considered). Others may have simpler suggestion's or You buy a complete conversion kit

As I would do my own work, just my thoughts, Cap

 

I have the same year and model. I've found that quality parts make a lot of diffence. Last time I used NAPA calipers and drums (United line) My rotors and rear shoes are EBC yellow. I can lock them up at 70 so they work pretty well.

 

Oh yes, use the stainless piston and coated calipers.

 

I’m no help on the Galaxy calibers, but Summitt Racing has a lot of different kits available, and a real good customer help line than can answer most questions. I can tell you that replacement calibers are usually cheap enough to not bother with rebuilding.
Rock Auto is also a good outlet if you have the application for the parts you need