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  1. tvpitts

    On my 53 F100 I put a power booster on the brakes & a proportioning valve. I have Disk in the front & drums on the back. I have braking on the back but none on the front. Anyone have any suggestions?
     
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  2. iicap

    TVP, I'm not well versed on disc / drum set ups but, you description and question says more info needed from you. Did you already have this set up working BEFORE you added the booster and proportioning valve?? Is this a conversion kit you bought to install?? The Master Cylinder, is a match for the disc front and drum rear?? The proportioning valve, is it a valve that's universal that you can adjust for equal pressure or from a specific vehicle. Do you know that most specific valves have a push or pull pin in the center to hold the valve centered when you bleed the brakes and you have make sure the valve is centered for bleeding. When all is correct front and rear and there should be brake failure front or rear the valve moves to that failed position to block the fluid loss and allow you braking on the non-failed end. Cap.
     
  3. tvpitts

    additional info does make any difference if the proportioning valve sensor is not wired into the electric
     
  4. iicap

    Most likely the sensor you are referring to has a single wire connector and its there to light up a warning light on the dash board to tell you there is a problem. It has NOTHING to do with how the valve OPERATES. If you choose to have a warning light, it has to have an insulated bulb base with 2 wires or a NON insulated base with 2 wires and a 2 contact bulb with a single filament, like a marine bulb. It should be wired with, a fuse, so power is on when the ignition switch is on. What you call a sensor, makes the ground so the bulb can illuminate when the piston in the valve moves for or aft. Wired correctly, the wire at the sensor/ground switch will always have power while the ignition switch is in the on position. If you want to get REAL technical, you could add a tee at your oil pressure sending unit and install a Low Oil Pressure Light Warning Switch to the tee and add a wire to it that Joins with the one to the proportioning valve. Now when you turn the ignition on, the warning light will illuminate to show you the bulb is working. When you start the engine the bulb will go out. Oh and you didn't answer any of the questions I asked you.....?
     
  5. tvpitts

    When I got the truck it was all stock except for the 302 engine. I put a new suspension with disk brakes. I rebuilt the rear drum brakes & ran all new line to the new booster, proportioning valve, master cylinder. The proportioning valve is not adjustable. I do not have the box on yet, so the back end is very light. I can lock up the rear wheels but do not seem to have any front braking. I checked the pin on the booster & it is adjusted right. Help
     
  6. iicap

    tvp, This is why all info is needed to help answer your questions. You said, "I put a new suspension with disk brakes" ??? What is new suspension ??? Is it a conversion kit or taken from a vehicle and installed as many people have done?? The booster, and master cylinder are they from the vehicle the new suspension came from?? If your front and rear brake set up are from two different vehicles, they are not designed to work together, you may have to get an adjustable proportioning valve to adjust the pressure so no lock up.
    You Said "I checked the pin on the booster & it is adjusted right"?? What about all the info I gave you about bleeding the brakes?? That has to be done so no air in the system. Don't even bother if the Master Cylinder is not a match to the front disc brakes.
     
  7. tvpitts

    I would to thank iicap & others for their suggestions to solve my brake problem. Actually the problem was much easier to fix than I thought. I ran a vacuum test & it was at 12 inches, adjusted the ignition timing , the vacuum went to 20 inches & brake work find.
     
  8. tvpitts

    I would to thank iicap & others for their suggestions to solve my brake problem. Actually the problem was much easier to fix than I thought. I ran a vacuum test & it was at 12 inches, adjusted the ignition timing , the vacuum went to 20 inches & brake work find. Thanks everyone.
     
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