Anybody replaced broken studs on the drivers side yet?

I've done lots on big rigs over the years, but never on something with tight quarters. Usually working from a standing position, not crouched over a tire, or even over a brake assembly...

 

Broken off below the surface? or do you have anything to grab hold of?
Cobalt drill bit and right angle drill attachment.

 

Appears to be flush.

Thanks for your input.

 

I usually weld a nut on top of a stud that broke off flat.
The heat from welding the nut on makes it come out pretty easy

Be prepared to be at an angle you never imagined for the ones under the master cyl......

 

A welder won't work in this case, as I don't have a welder at home. Yet... Just gonna have to be patient with it I guess.

I'm planning to use a left handed drill bit with an angle drill.

Got more pressing projects to take care of first though. Wife's car needs bushings for the subframe (GM product) and she wants me to install a remote starter kit.

 

Heat it up with some map gas first. Heat, and the reverse twist, you might get lucky

I have my fingers crossed for ya

 

The welding trick works well. .
Heat, soak with penetration oil. Pause, repeat. Several times. To nausium. Then go with the drills. Heat and cool is the key. Breaks the bond of the metals.
Best of luck!

 

There's also the old "CANDLE" trick - when you heat it, melt some wax into the threads.

Another good one is to make a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone as a thread cleaner and loosener.

(This one is unconfirmed)
Since the head is off the bolt, it may be possible to drill part way in and JB WELD a smaller grade 8 bolt into the hole to turn it out.

Option 4:
(The LEFT HAND SYSTEM)
Drill into it, and tap it for a left hand thread smaller bolt of a higher grade, then crank it out.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/taps-dies-sets/ground-thread-left-hand-fractional-plug-taps-hss

https://www.boltdepot.com/Hex_nuts_Stainless_steel_18-8_-_Left_hand_(reverse)_thread.aspx

*In the first link - 1/4 X 20 is the smallest size I saw, but there are more suppliers out there and more options.


(this is called thinking outside of the TOOL box)

~ You would only need one tap, not a set, and a couple of bolts



These days we think of left hand threaded fasteners as if they were alien science from some other universe, but they are still readily available and can be useful at times. A bolt like that would have a much better grip than an E-Z out. It would only have to be drilled and tapped to a depth just over the width of the smaller bolt, but deeper is better.

*** If you do this, be SURE to use a center punch to set a dimple in the middle of the broken bolt before drilling - as a guide for the bit. I dunno how many thousand bolt holes I have seen ruined because a drill bit was allowed to "WANDER" away from the middle point.
'Accuracy is Beautiful'

* It might also be helpful to remove any "CROWN" to the broken bolt using a small grinder, being careful not to grind the edges of the threaded hole, so that the center of it is flat before using the center punch.

But anyway, a few well placed taps from a hammer may break up the corrosion some, as well as the "Bolt Set" (!)


Regardless if you use a trick bolt and tap, or go with an E-Z Out; The mechanics of the stuck bolt that is broken are that the outer side of the bolt threads, and the inner side of the threads of the bolt hole, are what is 'stuck". If you smack it inwards with a punch it cannot fail to at least partially break the grip that has been established on the threads.

This is what I was thinking when I commented that the head was no longer on the bolt. It wasn't just a "CAPTAIN OBVIOUS" comment - ALL threads have some play until they are drawn up tight, and we can take advantage of that.

The only caveat is that corrosion products may have packed the backside of the threads too... But if they have, they are not 'under tension'. They will be soft.

No matter what, the best thing to do is smack the bolt (which is now an unwanted countersunk stud) in the opposite direction of its "PULL"


Sound real? Think about it...
It should help break it loose. And most of us never think to break loose the threads FIRST - do we?

KP says I over analyse things. He's right, but it often works

PS; Yeah, I know it's a stud. But I wanted to make a generic post that could be quoted​

 

Automatic transmission fluid And dot 3 brake fluid. Cut 50/50 is an excellent penetrate oil if paint and finish is not an issue. Brake fluid by itself is also a cheep penetration fluid with a bit of heat. It is hard on paint though. .....

 

Yeah - brake fluid is anathema to paint. Look at most firewalls and you can see that.

But I didn't know you could mix them...

WHATEVER you do - NEVER MIX TRANSMISSION FLUID AND BLEACH!!!

It explodes...


Bleach is an oxidizer, and the transmission fluid is a fuel. It's a very bad scene

 

Brake fluid is an old farm trick. Soak then heat, it works! Add atf, good cheep farm brew. I have a pump can in the shop to this day with that concoction.