Trying to get my 67 on the road, current problem is the brakes
I have installed everything new in the system, from the master cylinder, all the way back to the rear wheel cylinders, disc brakes up front , new lines and proportioning valve.
I have swapped sides with the front caliper, and still can’t get the brakes to bleed.
Front seem to be clear, but can’t get air out of the rears,
Any sugestions

 

Are you bleeding by pumping the brake pedal or using a vacuum type of bleeder?? Also, if pumping the pedal, your proportioning valve may have shifted to position to block rear brakes as if there was a line failure/serious leak and block fluid from traveling to rear brakes. Are you using all Ford parts for your disc brake conversion or someones aftermarket kit?? Does your proportioning valve have a rubber booted button in the center or on one end?? Cap.

 

I am using a hand vac pump, but have with brake pedal too. The disc kit is after market from Summitt, caliper look and mount like the Ford ones. I believe the rubber button is on the end but will look again

 

I think Cap is thinking the same thing I am, the vacuum bleeder pulls air through the threads of the bleeder screw. If the pedal feels good, you probably have most of the air out by now, just a small bubble left, right at the bleeder.
If working alone, I jam a 2X4 between the seat and pedal, then just crack the bleeder enough to get that bubble.
Also, the kit likely came with a combination valve, 3 valves in one, it should center itself. Even the factory ones, after sometime in the early '70s centered themselves, unless defective, but your OE '67 differential valve didn't.

 

A bit more. Old school about bleeding brakes, the farthest wheel from the Master Cylinder, right rear, is First Bled then LR, RF, LF. On a new Master Cylinder, Bench bleed it before installing. Sitting level in a vise, outlet plugged, fill it, then using a (I use a large Phillps screwdriver) to push the piston, I keep working it till no more air bubbles rise in the reservoir. Push slowly as a stream of brake fluid will shoot straight up out of the reservoir if you don't. You don't have to push the full travel of the piston.

If to want to protect your nicely painted rear axle or front suspension (brake fluid raises h... with paint), get a length of clear poly tubing to fit snugly on the bleeder nipple, long enough to reach the ground. Working alone, I gravity bleed the brakes. If You have a proportioning / combination valve with a button, press it to be sure and center the valve. Opening the bleeder, the head pressure from the Master Cyl will push the fluid thru. If you watch the poly tubing, as the fluid comes thru, you'll see air bubbles at the bleeder. Give about 10 seconds after no more bubbles and ALL air is gone, lock the bleeder.

Remember, DON'T let the Master Cyl run dry or you'll be letting more air in. Check and fill it after each wheel is bled. This gravity way takes a bit more time, but you'll get all the air out and have a hard brake pedal.

Cap.

 

Here is the valve that came with the new master cyl, don’t see any button
Pedal is a little firmer now but still goes to the floor
I’ll go back and try the gravity bleed again

 

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I gravity bled all 4 wheels apx 45 min each, prob a half pint from each. Kept master cyl full, but no change in the pedal. Still goes to the floor
My pedal seems to have a very short travel, maybe the rod is too short and not depressing the plunger all the way
Does a dual resivor have a longer rod than a single? Thinking this may be the old original master cyl rod

 

1st, make sure your master cylinder push rod is adjusted so the piston in the Master Cylinder returns all the was back. There should be a mi-nute noticeable movement of the push rod before it contacts the piston, while just applying the brake pedal with your fingers. This allows all the fluid pushed out, can return to master cyl reservoir when the pedal is released. Usually you have a rubber bumper as a pedal stop to adjust the pedal height. Now the bolt going thru the push rod should be eccentric. By loosening the bolt an turning the large hex on the push rod side, you can move the push rod fore and aft to set the free play.

On the pedal to the floor, even tho you bled all the wheels, you MAY have air ahead of the piston(s) in the master cyl if you didn't bench bleed it. By doing the push rod adjustment described above you can get that air to come up thru the reservoir. Even by yourself, cap off of the M C, you should be able to lightly press the brake pedal, bout a 1/2 inch and release it, while standing outside, door open and see the the bubbles come back up into the resivoire. Keep doing till all bubbles are gone after releasing the pedal. Don't bother pushing pedal the floor to test till the bubbles are gone.

Your rear brakes, do they have self adjusters?? Did you initially adjust them manually, after doing your rear brake job??

Cap

 

Ok thanks again , it will be a few days before I can get back on it . I’ll let you know what i find

 

Figured out the brake problem
Check things you recommended, and when I loosened lines at Mc , depressed pedal and almost no fluid coming from front port
Removed Mc and found the rod was not long enough to barely push the plunger
Put a spacer in the plunger and bingo got brakes
Thanks again for the help

 

Hoping your all set, be SURE about your brakes! Not sure about you plunger spacer??? You may need a different push rod. The push rod would have a ball, rounded end where it contacts a taper in your Master Cylinder's (MC) piston, what your calling a plunger. Lot's you may have done, we don't see. Especially when you get away from OEM Ford components and have aftermarket conversion parts. Some power brake set up's with automatic transmissions had brake pedals a lot lower to the floor board compared to standard shift pedals.

Cap