I set the number 1 cylinder at TDC on a compression stroke. I pointed the rotor at number one.
I did the firing order at 15426378 in counter clockwise direction.
The parts are pertronix distributor with an internal modulator, a fireball II coil and ford racing wires. The coil has just under 13 volts with the key on and it has spark.
It doesn't sound like it wants to fire. I have revisited every step in the process.
I am at the end of my ideas. All help and advice will be appreciated.

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Had the same issue with my 302, turns out I was 180 out. Had to turn the crank by hand from TDC to the next time num 1 piston was at TDC , then move dist back to num 1 , Then I had dist way to retarded to fire.

 

So the Piston was at TDC on the stroke other than compression, right.
It actually sounds like I am 180 out when I crank it.
I will give it a shot. Thank you!

 

I don't have all the info here, but if you didn't move the engine, it should still be on TDC, however just rolling the truck in and out of the shop can rotate the engine with a manual transmission. First thing I would do is check for spark while cranking, I believe some early pertronix need two inputs, one for cranking and one for starting, just like points, and if that is the case, your voltage is too high for run. If you have the latest system, it should be okay.
This is assuming a new installation, if the truck was running on this system before, that should have been worked out already.

 

It had a GM style distributor when I got it. It didn't run smoothly with that setup.
I tried to set the timing with a light. It was nowhere near the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. I did have it running but not well.
I have not gotten it to run with the pertronix distributor. It is the newest edition, but it does have two wires. The instructions mention resistance and a resistor in line. I haven't found a way to test the resistance of that wire. Anyway, I will try the 180 out theory next.

 

The ring on your balancer may have turned, they do that sometimes. Basically, the outer part is set in rubber, and the bond can let go. This would explain your earlier issue with the GM dist being nowhere near the timing mark, and the present no start.

 

Verify damper timing mark position. Remove #1 spark plug, set damper at TDC, with a skinny screwdriver placed in plug hole against piston top, rotate engine back and forth of TDC, note screwdriver going up and down. When the most upper movement up of screwdriver stops, look at damper, should be at TDC, if so, damper has not slipped. Cap

 

You just said the very thing that I have always done when stabbing a distributor. Thank you for the verification. I am convinced that the module on the distributor is not firing. I will return the pertronix setup and go with the MSD. It costs more, but I have never had a problem with MSD products..

 

In my arsenal I have a remote starter button, one clip to battery positive other to the S terminal on starter terminal (cheap to buy or easy to make). Remove coil wire as engine might normally try to start because I terminal on solenoid will fire the ignition when solenoid engaged. With #1 plug out and your thumb over the plug hole, tap engine over till feeling compression against thumb, stop, look see if TDC is coming on damper or just past. Rotate engine by hand to TDC. This is sure way to know your on TDC compression stroke and OK to correctly install distributor.

The original wire to the coil from the ignition switch has a resistance section in it. It is buried in a/the wire harness that usually has the wires going to the Temp and Oil light/gauge senders. It would reduce voltage across the ignition points for longer life. On the coil side of the resistance section the wire from the starter solenoid I terminal is spliced in. It gives the coil, distributor, full battery voltage only when cranking the engine to aid better, quicker starting. Double check you Pertronics hookup/installation. Cap

 

When I pulled the harness from the original cab I did away with the fusible link or resistance wire. The GM HEI distributor also needs uninterrupted full battery voltage.
So That was not the issue. The pertronix module just did not work. I have sent it back.
We are having a late Winter cold snap. So I will hold off for a week or two before I decide which direction to go. I may just try the GM distributor again.
Thank you for the guidance on this. It's good to have your help.

 

I’m not real familiar with th 352, but look at your clearances around the HEI dist. I used one on my 302 and had issues with water and sending unit ports/outlets, had to buy a 2” spacer for the air filter so it would clear dist. Plus when I turned the dist for timing one of the cap retainers hot on the intake and not allow me to get timing where it needed to be.
I like the idea of everything being together, but if I had it to do again I would not get an HEI
Guess that’s why we shouldn’t mix Ford and GM

 

I echo all RP67F100 has said in previous post.
In the future any conversion by me will be with Ford DuraSpark II. When converting the 240 six in my 66-250, I followed the schematic for the 79, 300 engine (source of my DuraSpark for the conversion). Although I made up my own wiring, today online you can find pre made harness to connect the distribuitor to the control box and I believe has all the necessary leads to hook all up. Need to add, all of my trucks are stock in appearance, OE air cleaner, EFE ducting, etc. Cap

 

I also like the stock look. This truck has left all that behind, unfortunately.
I went through all the steps suggested by you guys.
It sounded like the battery was dragged down every time I cranked the motor trying to get it to start. I knew it wasn't turning too hard because I was turning it with a ratchet to get to TDC. Finally, I tested the battery after cranking the engine. The battery still had just under 13 volts and it load tested well. Next I pulled the starter and tested it on tbs floor. It sounded like it had a handfull of gravel in it. I replaced it and the motor turned fast enough to get it to start and run. Now it us still not as smooth as I like, but I can work with it.
Thank you all for the help and suggestions!

 

Glad you got her running. The starter dragging down battery voltage, never gave it a thought in your situation. Old Time check of starter draw, while cranking the engine is, "the amps drawn should never be more than the cubic inches of the engine". Cap

 

I skipped one of the first steps for sure. Thanks for the help!