Our daughter and I continue our work on her 69 F100.

Looks like we need a carb. Original is a Carter YF 4670S. Manual choke. 240. Having a hard time finding a matching carb.

Recommendations?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

Your 240 and the 300 engines used a distributor that only has vacuum spark advance, NO centrifugal advance, called the Load o Matic distributor. It requires the special carb you trying to find, yes not easy. What about repairing your Carb??? What is the problem with your carb???

 

Thanks for the detail. Ugh on the carb.

The butterfly sticks and we've found that the arm on the back bends when you accelerate or release it. Took the carb off and there is side-t0-side play in the butterfly. No clue if that can be fixed. In a quick search, I didn't find a replacement.

She did rebuild the carb.

Open for suggestions!

 

Please also see reply that I don't think I did directly to you.

She found this one. Looks similar. Manual choke. Your thoughts on compatibility?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...tive-truck-1969-ford-f-100?q=carburetor&pos=3

 

The O'Reilly Carb, appears NOT what you want.

More info from You on original carb. You say "She rebuilt it" meaning your daughter?? Does the carb have a manual or automatic choke?? The sticking butterfly You mention, is it the Choke Plate in the upper body of the carb or the Throttle Plate in the lower body,that hooks to the gas pedal linkage?? Is there any other reason for the rebuild than the sticking plate?? On rebuild, did she remove either plate from the shaft it is attached to??

 

Thanks for the reply and the follow up questions.

- Yes, our daughter rebuilt the carb. She's in the automotive tech program at Pittsburg State University in Pittsburg, KS, so I trust her.
- Manual choke.
- The sticking butterfly is the one on the lower body. It only sticks when the engine is running. You can see the back piece that hooks to that butterfly flex when it gets stuck. There is a lot of play in it when we took the carb off.
- The rebuild was because its a 52 year old truck that we suspect never had much maintenance. It spent the last 10 years being a farm truck and never hitting the road.
- Not sure I follow exactly on your last question, but she said that she did not take any plates off.

Thanks again for the help.

 

I am currently working to get a '67 F350, with a 240 engine back roadworthy, and recently discovered I also have (had) the Load-O-Matic distributor. I opted to replace my distributor with an updated version, and will be adding a Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb in the near future. If you want to stay original, look for a Holley 1940 carb. These were service replacement carbs, I believe often used on industrial application 300-I6 engines. It's what is on my engine now. If you want to upgrade the distributor to one that has both vacuum- and weighted centrifugal- advance, it would allow the use of a broader range of replacement carburetors.
Classic Inlines Ford Six Load-O-Matic Distributor & Spark Control Valve, is a link explaining how the Load-O-Matic works.
If you haven't seen it yet, take a look at the Ford 6 Performance Forum. There is an astounding amount of info there relating to making these engines run well, and many folks who are happy to answer questions and give suggestions.

 

Thanks! I wondered about updating the distributor. I found a carb, but its 700 miles away, as-is and $325. I can drive to LMC Truck. I'll check out that forum, as well.

I notice the article you shared references a Autolite 1100 carb is designed to work with the Load-O-Matic. She has a Carter YF-4670S on her truck. Would it be worth looking into that carb?

 

In my humble opinion, anything that might work is worth looking into. I have found that many of these carburetors were built by several companies, and each used their own model numbers. The Holley on my truck has a Motorcraft tag and numbers with no mention of Holley. Took me a while to sort through enough info to figure that one out.
Have you thought of sending your carb out to a re-build shop? Those folks generally install bushings and new throttle shafts, and that might fix your sticking issue, as well as solve any air seepage at the shaft ends when the engine is running.
If you want to look into an updated distributor, I think you'll be looking for 1970 and later. There are posts on the Ford 6 Performance forum with detailed info on that change over. The price can get real steep really fast, as most of those are high performance intended, with electronic triggers instead of points, and fat coils for massive spark.
I'll have to dig up the part number, but I bought a new-replacement Cardone distributor from Rock Auto. It came with new points, condenser, cap and rotor installed, could have been installed and run out of the box. I spent some more bucks and switched it to a Pertronix electronic trigger, and upgraded the coil and wires at the same time.

 

Thanks for the comments.

We had changed to electronic ignition already. So that cost is sunk. I'll have to check out Rock Auto on the distributor.

Had not considered sending it to a shop. I wonder if we ate up the bushings when we cleaned up the carb, because I don't recall this issue on the (very short) test drive. I may look into that. Kind of a drag, since we already rebuilt it. I don't see how to get the pin out for the butterfly, but I would guess a shop would have a press.

 

In my limited experience with carb rebuilds, the throttle shaft has a flat on it where the throttle butterfly sits, and usually two small screws that hold the butterfly to the shaft. Remove any exterior brackets from the shaft, remove the attaching screws, and the throttle shaft slides out of the carb. They do not have bushings when new, over time side loads on the shaft (it is hardened steel) cause it to wear ovals in the carb body (which is much softer metal) causing a loose fitting shaft and air seepage. The shaft will often have wear spots as well. Rebuild shops ream the carb body oversize, then insert bushings to restore original spec, then install a new throttle shaft. Any air leaks there make it impossible to properly adjust the carb.
Interestingly enough, the Pertronix part number for the Load-O-Matic distributor I have was the same number for the Cardone dist I bought. Check with Pertronix, you might be able to use what you have in the upgrade.

 

thanks!

I found a guy that says he can fix it. We'll see....

 

Agreeing with ALL Philthytoo has said. In my case I used a Ford Dura Spark II distributor from a 1979 F-350, other years and models same. The performance difference is night and day. If you go to a pick and pull wrecking yard just make sure the control box on fender well has a Blue grommett were the wires go in. Get ALL, distributor, coil, control box and wiring and maybe the carb. Tho numerous other carbs can now be used. In my case I was/am trying to keep as original in apperance. I'm using my Load o Matic carb. As mentioned there are sites telling just conversion to higher perfornmance. A NOTE, if you upgrade to a High Energy ignition, the oriignal wire, in the harness, that feeds the stock coil, has a resistance built into it. The upgrade will usually require full battery voltage to power the distributor properly.

 

Thanks for all of the detail. I've got a guy that says he can fix the butterfly, so we're going to start there and see how it goes. I like the idea of upgrading for a little better performance, but money is getting tight on this project. Maybe later!

Will let you all know how it goes.