Hey guys, I'm in the process of changing a manual dual fuel tank selector valve to an electronic solenoid type and have a question regarding wire #10 shown in the attached instruction. The instructions say it should run to the "accessory power circuit." Since the only thing I've ever done with a fuse box is replace fuses, can you tell me if they're referring to the area circled on the attached fuse box picture? #ad
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The fuse panel was rather basic in those years, you might consider tapping into the rear of the ignition switch "run" wire. Using a test light, you want power only in run and start, one of those spade connectors (left side of panel) may also work. I would not add to an existing circuit, make a new one and hang the fuse where it can be reached.
When you clean that rust off the fuse contacts, add a little dielectric grease, to stop that from returning.

 

Your picture shows nothing circled?? Your Fuse panel is definitely in need of some love. Because your installation has it's own 1 amp fuse, the #10 wire powering the selector valve should ONLY have power when the ignition switch is on.

If the 2 individual spades, left side of the fuse panel have NO power with key off and power when the key on, in both the run and accessory position's, your could plug into one of them. If you can't use the spades as described, I'd hook the #10 wire to the accessory terminal of the ignition switch. Make sure you leave your fuse readily accessible.

Cap

 

Thanks Oldiesask. That makes sense. The picture posted was before the fuse box was cleaned, lubed, and fuses replaced.

 

Thanks Cap. Yeah, I realized after the fact that I posted the wrong pic. It's also the before clean up pic. The spades were what I was referring to and will test them for power on/off with the key in both positions.

 

Hey guy, just an fyi. I tested the two spades last night and they do only have power with the key on, so I can use one of them. Thank you both for your insightful help.

 

Sounds Good. Let us know how you conversion works out.
Cap