07 4.0 2 WD Limited - had bad noise that ended up being timing components, I've done the timing on this engine when I replaces the whole engine assembly two years ago. Since I was familiar and had the special tool I was able to get it timed and back running almost completed save for a check engine light that I could not determine its orgin. Finally I had a mobile mechanic hook up his scanner and with it in Live Data mode we could see the performance chane by spraying starter fluid into the intake area. Thats why I did the intake gasket job. When I put everything back together I had this current Crank No Start condition. I called my guy out again cause I had fuel, spark and air and was unable to determine what is wrong. He came out and did all the pinpoint tests recommended in Alldata's diagnostic program and called "bad PCM". I shipped it to Your Part Source in Illonois but all their testing showed they could not get it to fail on any of their testing so they sent it back and the $95 I prepaid for their repair. The kept $75 is for their diagnostic. I tried the other key in case the key I had somehow got its chip erased. There are no indications on the dash or the red light in the middle of the dash area that blinks slowly so if Anti Theft is the problem, I don't know how to test that. I changed out a good crank sensor. I had a few Coolant Temp Sensor codes leading up to this so I purchased a new connector and temp sensor. (Does it matter which wire goes to which of the two options, the new connector had same color wire to splice the connector to so I guessed there was no order for the wires). So I now still have a Crank no start condition. Battery is being charge up past 12 so it is not a battery problem. One last thing, when I first did the intake gaskets, the connector to the coils was hard to plug in so I lengthend all 4 wires with some same kind and color wire I had from when I did the engine assembly replacement two years ago. I tore it apart yesterday after I reinstalled the PCM that was verified good just looking for a short or exposed bare copper in that job. Everything looked good with that.

Please, if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be much abliged. I have Mitchell1 and Alldata subscriptions so I can get technical diagrams if I need them. All fuses are good both in cab under driver side dash and under hood near battery. On passenger side the fuel switch there is in working position and there is good fuel pressure showing on my Live Data scanner. The starting rpms are good at 225. All injectors tested similar on their respective resistance near 15.2 ohms. I don't know what else there is for me to do....................