My 352 has one ring that got rusted and can’t just be honed out. I’m wondering what the best (and cheapest) option to move forward with?

 

"one ring that got rusted and can’t just be honed out." ???? More clarity needed from you. You don't hone out a ring, you would hone a cylinder. Do you have this engine disassembled and find rust on a cylinder wall??

 

Yep. It was seized and we knew it was that one cylinder, but when we tried to hone it the rust was deeper than we thought

 

To keep it stock, you would have that cylinder bored and a sleeve to standard put in. Or your bore all the cylinders over size and install all new pistons and rings. Your getting into money again now. You might look for a complete good running engine as the cheapest way out. Possibly a 352, 360, 390 and you can only take persons word as to what an engine is. You need to measure the stroke to determine 352 to a 390, not sure on 360, think same stroke as 352 and slightly larger bore. When checking a stock engine look at the part/casting # on intake manifold beginning C7 would be a 67 being as C represents decade of the 60's. D of the 70's. Just for fun what is the # on your existing engines intake manifold.

 

It’s the original motor, says C7

 

So.......have you made a decision, fix it or replace it?? To start, talk to an automotive machine shop, ask about over boring and installing a sleeve back to stock bore, or possibly your most economical option. Ask if there is more he MUST do other than bore and sleeve. Search for another 352, 360, 390 and cost, so you know the expense of ALL options. Keep us in the loop, we'd like to know how you make out.

 

Just want to add.... I believe the fifth digit/letter of your VIN on the warranty plate indicates the engine the truck came from the factory with. You can search or let us know and we'll see if it's a 352 or possibly a 390.

 

Thanks FTZ H, good point, he wouldn't know what he was getting without a stroke check, at least C or D with# will give him a clue to the yr.

LOL, old man not thinking, he can measure stroke of his disassembled engine.

 

It’s the original engine, already checked the VIN. It’s been rebuilt but wasn’t bored out. My local shop said it would be about 260 to bore them all. What is the best/cheapest pistons that I can get?

 

Talk to the man in the machine shop, ask him about your best bet for pistons and if he would source them for you, nothing exotic, just equal to stock. Might be a kit with oversize piston's, rings, bearings, gaskets. Something he might do if he was to assemble the short or long block for you. Or look for kit on your own if your going to assemble, you might research how wrist pins are installed, if just in by hand OK, if procedure required you might need him to do.

 

Decided to bore it to 30 over, looking for a good rebuild kit. I'm looking for one that has everything (camshaft, push rods, timing chain, the whole deal) but doesn't overcharge me $300 for "shipping." Any suggestions?

 

I don't think you are going to find a kit as complete as you're describing. Cam and Lifters would be a kit. Timing chain and gears would be a kit. Normally when you disassemble you would make a holding device (holes drilled into a piece of wood) to put the push rods and lifters in. You should # the holes somehow so you can put them back in the engine where they came out and the lifters would go against the cam lobe it broke in with. You could/should measure each cam lobe for all being consistent ( look for a lobe or more quite worn compared to the others) Replacing the cam, lifter's and push rods is not usually part a rebuild. AND Ford FE engines without adjustable rocker arms could have standard push rods, or .060 shorter or longer than standard. There is a procedure for testing what push rod's would be needed individually. If this has been rebuilt and You don't know the actual history, who know what you're dealing with.
Cap.

 

i have been using http://greenbaypartsworld.net/index.htm for a long time, they specialize in older motors making kits with good name parts

 

Thanks for the input, that was really helpful. I'm working on rebuilding the carb right now while I'm waiting on the kit. I'm also in the market for a distributor. Any suggestions?