Gang, a new problem has occurred. I am planning on putting the Vic in the shop and have the chains, guides and tensioners installed, but today while hot-rodding around, the temp gauge went very high, I mean very high. The problem has been there when the outside temps were in the mid 90's, but today the temps were in the low 80's. It has a new thermostat (tested/drilled), proper Ford coolant (45/55) and the Ford water wetter (racing) added. It does not happen when the a/c is off. I know, do not run the a/c. LOL

Your thoughts. Water pump or radiator or both? Both has to come out to replace the chains, guides and tensioners so the only cost would be parts.

 

Radiator is the first thing that comes to mind. I'd try cleaning out the fins first, especially is you live/ drive in a dusty area. While you are getting the other work done, the water pump shouldn't add that much more to the job especially if it is original.

 

Does you CV have an electric fan like my Town Car?
The electric fan is in front of the clutch fan and comes on only when the A/C is running, and when mine failed the car overheated when the A/C was running

If you are putting in new timing chains, a new water pump is a no brainer.
If the radiator looks to have deposits in it when you look in the cap, I would replace it while it was out

 

BD, my first thought is the radiator, but the water pump does have a plastic impeller and I have been told that they do wear. Charlie, I did think about the fan. It is the two speed electric and I do hear it come on, but I have never heard it go to high. I do not have a clutch fan. There is no room for it. I do not have any idea how to check the fan operation other than when I turn on the a/c it automatically comes on. One thing, before this heat-up problem happened, I broke two fan blades. No idea how. The outer ring cracked. The last blade I broke, instead of replacing the entire housing, I just replaced the blade from a salvage yard.

 

Thanks Ken, did not think of that. It did run hot once while idleling with the a/c on, but most of the overheat problems I have noticed is when the outside temps are in the 90's with a/c on, getting caught in heavy traffic with the a/c on or if I dog it hard by using the transmission 1st and 2nd instead of the brakes in the mountains with the a/c on. The transmission temps going up may be making the radiator overheat as the temps were in the high 60's when this happened. Maybe I need to add a transmission cooler to the repair mix.

 

While it's in the shop is an ideal time to run the radiator over to a rad shop, or at least give it a thorough back flush. If you see a lot of rust come out either a new rad, or a new core might be in order.

The pressure cap is one I've run into many times before. Anything I buy used gets a new one of the correct rating. People just never think to trash old ones, even though they don't cost much and when they fail, you always get a boil over scenario.

Same thing happens with pressure loss that happens with boiling water at high altitude.

 

GW's spot on. Great opportunity to go through the radiator and be sure it's ready for future service. The shop I use is great and they take a CLOSE look at the core, tanks and seams. Any problems/questions/concerns, they let me know and I get to decide how much peace of mind I need. New radiator cap is a good idea too. Simple preventive maintenance. The few dollars spent eliminate a lot of future questions and head scratching. DB's idea is also a headache-saver. Pull your pump and visually inspect the rotor and seal. Anything bothers you, now's the time to take care of it. Least case, you're out some time and a gasket. Worst case, you invest same time and a little more $$ for a pump. Either way, you eliminate a future source of headaches.

 

I have decided just to replace the rad and pump when I have the chains, guides and tensioners installed. But I am somewhat puzzled. I have heard the tensioners called tensioners and something else. Ken made a comment about them that I cannot find at the moment. Do the tensioners just tighten up the chains or do they also mess with the valve timing. Ken said something like locking them down causes a 20 hp loss on low end, but I am at a loss. Help gang. I am putting it in the shop next week.

 

Thanks for the reply Ken. Just too much on my mind (what little mind I have left) at once to make a good decision.

 

If you have decided to replace the radiator - look into an upgrade.
Dunno what engine you have, I'm guessing a mid or big block.

What I WOULD DO (since you have to shell out anyway) is specify a triple or quad core radiator for a 460, all metal if possible because they are more reliable in the long run. If the only option is a radiator with an alloy core and plastic end caps I would skip over the re-coring option and get an all-new.

The reason for that is because re-used tank clamps have a bad history of not doing as good a job (being weakened) and eventually springing leaks.

The tanks on composite radiators are sealed with O-rings, and rely on a steel band with finger-like crimp ons all around the edges. Once used, a smart shop replaces them with new. But not all shops can resist saving that little bit of extra cash...

Do the "GUY THING". When you talk to them, let them know that you know what a radiator is, and how it's put together. Don't allow them to run over you, tell them straight out on the front end that if it jacks up - you'll be back.

 

92 and newer crown vic was only offered with a 4.6 engine, so you can only get either a regular radiator or the rough service police radiator.
and if i remember correctly Paul has a 99 P-71 police interceptor,so he should already have the rough service radiator

 

It all boils down to what fits the hole.
(no pun intended)

To me it sounds like a 408W build would be righteous in it.