After I replaced the intake gaskets and started up the truck their was a very loud clanking noise from the right rear bell housing area. Probably dropped something inside. During the course of my investigation I got a magnet stuck behind the torque converter. Pulled transmission and when reinstalled I "stacked" it and broke one bolt boss off the bell housing tightening it up. Transmission has now been rebuilt and installed correctly, however the noise is still there. Got a 5 mm endo scope that hooks up to cell phone off AMAZON for $21. Will be looking inside cylinders on right head.
Question: If I don't see anything, does anyone of a good mechanic in the Burien, WA area? Tired of messing with it..............

Michael

 

Replacing intake gaskets on an engine installed in a vehichle, nothing should get into the bell housing area. Something either dropped or was put into the #3 or 4 intake port, a washer, a nut or what ever. It might wedge between intake valve and seat, holding the valve open and the piston hitting the valve. Also could have dropped a valve seat and cocked side ways holding valve open. Running with noise, smooth n OK like, or running like crap??? No mention of what truck and what engine???? Tired of messing or not, why give up, go after, find and fix.
Cap

 

1977 Ranger 250 XLT with a 460 in it. I have only started up the engine and let it run for about three seconds. Promise I'll use the endoscope this weekend to look for things in the cylinders and intake/exhaust ports.

 

Is there more you meant to say??

 

OK Michael, looking forward to what you find. Hopefully no major damage done. I'd remove R H valve cover and check for bent or real loose push rod or a valve spring that looks a lot lower than others. Turn engine over by hand to see valves open and close and no binding turning the engine

 

It's been awhile since I have looked at this. Nothing seen in the #3 & 4 cylinders and no damage visible. Pulled the intake and see nothing on top of the intake valves #3 & 4.
The #4 exhaust valve/spring assy is able to rotate by hand. None of the other valve springs do this. Also I removed the rocker arm on #4 exhaust and pulled the new lifter out and cannot compress it.
Engine rotates by hand just fine.
Thoughts?

 

Hi Michael. On your question/findings. You should look in All the cylinders. Did you turn the engine over by hand before disassembling anything? You say nothing on top of 3 & 4 intake valves, meaning you looked into the intake PORTS and saw nothing but the under side of the valves. DO look into ALL the intake ports for debris. Once a hydraulic lifter becomes full of oil it is NOT easy to compress them, that is normal. On rotating the #4 exhaust valve, not sure what to tell you. Possibly, If all the other push rod, rocker assy's were intact there may be a slight pressure against them.

Now this is a bit of a stretch, BUT, Need to mention it as Fact. I'm not sure if this applies to 460 engines. Hopefully BKW our Ford Parts Guru will pitch in. On engines Like the 240/300 six and the FE V-8's when they no longer were made with adjustable rocker arms, Ford offered/used, standard, .060 longer and .060 shorter push rods. This is ONE REASON why you ALWAYS put push rods and lifters back in the same position they came from. There were/are tools with a long handle that grab the rocker arm, with the engine in the proper position, you push downward against the push rod to squeeze the oil out of the lifter till it bottoms out, then take a measurement between the rocker and the valve stem. There is a minimum/maximum spec the clearance needs to BE IN.

So sounds like you have replaced the cam and lifters??? What else has been done?? A valve job, head resurfaced? All could affect the valve clearance and possibly be a no clearance on some valves. Glad you got back to us. We all like to know the outcomes of problems. Cap

 

iicap wrote:

So sounds like you have replaced the cam and lifters??? Lifters only.
What else has been done?? Nothing, except replacing the intake gasket.
A valve job, head resurfaced? Nope.
However will be looking into the 1 and 2 cylinders this weekend. The 5mm bore scope works fairly good!

 

OK on all you wrote. You should be aware that the bottom of lifters should have had a special anti wear additive brushed on, or an additive put in with oil to help the lifters not wear excessively till broke in. Sometimes a 20-50 racing oil is recommended because they have special anti wear additives in them. Diesel engine oils designed for flat tappet (lifter) engines are also used. You should do a little online search on subject, you don't want to wear away any cam lobes or lifter bottoms.

 

The "loud clanking noise" only happened after I replaced the intake gasket.
Not after replacing the lifters.

Replacement lifters were soaked in oil and pumped up. A synthetic grease was applied to the lifter bore and a white lithium grease was applied to the bottom of the lifter upon install.

Still will be doing further probing with the 5mm endoscope.

 

#8 cylinder has something in it. Head is coming off today and it will probably be a washer. The spark plug "tab" was pushed down to the electrode.
1-139 2-150 3-135 4-120 5-145 6-139 7-140 8-100 this is the results of the pressure test. NOTE: #8 cylinder is low.... Also think it is time for a new carb as now the Holley is leaking from the accelerator pump area and will not go into the choke mode. Suggestions on suitable replacement? Thank you,

 

Michael,
Wow the original post looks like 10-2020
Now today is 10 months later????
Are the dates correct or did you find the problem and fix it already? I would think a magnet would pull that washer out the plug hole... might come out (size)??
As for carbs, I have used and raced with Holly and never had a problem. Just jet it correctly..Easy to repair also..

 

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Yes, correct, it has been sitting. After head was pulled found a little piece of metal that was inside the #8 cylinder. Looks sorta like a sandblasted piston top. There were a few scratch marks on top of the #7 cylinder also. The intake and exhaust valves on 8 and 7 look totally normal meaning, no marks, etc. Number 7 cylinder and 8 photos attached.
As far a the carburetor goes what Holley would you recommend for a stock 460?
Thank you,

 

Where did a piece of metal come from???
That would be my big question BEFORE putting it back together.
As far as the carb, to save yourself a lot of trouble, I would make a call to Summit Racing or your local speed shop wherever you are planning to purchase the carb from and tell them what you have and they should be able to get real close with the carb AND jet sizing. (ballpark)
Then keep a check on your spark plug color for fine tuning..
Just my .02 worth....

 

Well both heads came off cleaned up and put back on. Engine fires up and there is a "knocking noise" when running. The knocking quiets down a bit after the engine is warmed up. I suspect that the knocking noise is from the water that got into the intake and filled up the oil pan, maybe affecting the bearings. A friend suggested that I run Royal Purple 0W-8 for two hundred miles or so and let it soak the bearings. This might help. What do you all think?