I recently acquired a 1971 Ford F250 Camper Special Ranger XLT. The previous owner was running it off the auxiliary tank only, as the main tank behind the seat was full of really bad gas. I recently put a new main tank behind the seat. Instead of going through the switch valve under the drive seat, I by-passed it and cut the auxiliary tank out of the equation. Now it has a new tank, with new line running to the carb.

The issue is no gas is getting to the carb. Is there a vacuum issue that I am missing? Anyone else have issues like this.

#ad

 

Your new line at the tank top?? Is it a flared tubing and fitting to compress the flare against seat for a positive seal?? Next in your picture, it looks like the hose onto the steel piping is to large and you've just squeezed it down with the clamp. You need correct size hose so it's a slight force to get it on the steel line. What about connection at the fuel pump?? A hose to the steel line coming along the frame, is it new, is it correct size. All three place mentioned are possible vacuum leaks,for air to suck in and not pull the fuel.

 

Thanks Rich. The tubing is flared. The hose is a tight fit, just very thing walled fuel hose. Will check the fuel pump for vacuum leaks.

Appreciate the response.

 

Brando, just for the sake of conversation. A fuel pump/engine vacuum test gauge available from a auto parts store, is a great diagnostic tool at a reasonable price. On fuel pump, testing for pressure is mostly done, BUT, testing the suction/vacuum side of a fuel pump is just as important. In each test, after you reach the maximum reading, stop cranking and wait a bit watching the gauge. It should NOT drop, this tells you the pump inlet and outlet check valves are in good shape, as they should be. If either does not hold, replace the pump. Test connections are to the pump, no system rubber hoses. After verifying fuel pump is good, On Your Truck I would disconnect the steel line atop of tank. Slip on the test gauge's hose, crank engine over till Max vacuum reading, stop cranking and reading should hold. If it fades down, you have a vacuum leak between line at gauge and the fuel pump. With all new hoses, the steel line along/in the frame would be suspect.

 

Solid plan. Thanks Rich.

 

Rich, what is your thought on bypassing the stock fuel pump and putting on an electric one? Old school vs new?

 

You need to know my response is Biased. I'm from and era when as a working mechanic, we learned about and rebuilt starters, generators, carbs, fuel pumps, etc. The astronomical cost of labor today prohibits doing that and the era of throw away or vendor rebuilt parts, is now locked in.
So I/we would rebuild or replace new, if not rebuildable. Your truck is 1971, cant remember you stating if Original engine or not, FE- 360 I'm assuming. We would install an electric fuel pump, IF a mechanical pump could not operate any more. That being the camshaft lobe or eccentric being worn, could not operate the pump. I think you need to find the answers to why your not getting fuel from the tank to the carb. Resolve the issue and get all operating as it should with the stock set up. If this truck ran fine before you put in the new tank and did away with the old auxillary. Did it run OK?? You drove it home when you bought it?? You used the truck for a while before the new tank install??

 

Good point Rich. It did run when I brought it home, however, I picked it up from a guy mid project. He was about to do what I am doing, get it road worthy again. Plan to work the problem, as I would prefer to keep it factory. Its the 390 Camper Special Ranger XLT with the generator.

 

Again FYI, recently said on another thread I believe. In the VIN #, one of the letters designates the engine installed at the factory. 360 V8 standard, 390 optional. You say has generator. Alternators came in around 63-65, my 66 has alternator from factory. So something going on there. 360, 390 are of the FE engine family and other displacements. Almost All have 352 cast in front of block below left cyl head, it does NOT mean it's a 352. There were different bores and strokes. You could check the stroke thru a spark plug hole, you CAN'T check bore without removing a cylinder head.

 

It has the optional 390 and the under the hood generator.

#ad

 

OMG! now there is something I'd never seen. Do You think it was a Ford option or just added and put under hood. The little engine has a fuel pump on it. Is the suction hose Teed into the hose to the truck engine fuel pump and be part of your fuel problem???

 

That was a factory option! I believe it was part of the "Camper Special" package. Runs 110 to the bed for a camper. I even have the original manual for it. Forget the brand. It was running before I started the gas tank project, so it must be ok. I plan to disconnect the connections at the fuel pump and ensure the lines are clear next. I haven't followed the gas line out of the generator yet, but that is a great idea as well. Appreciate the collaboration on this.