Hello Everyone of the Forum:

Im a new member but have years and years of electrical back ground plus have worked in automechanics and even rebuilt and tested computerized equipment for the Dept of Defense so you can grasp where I come from.

Anyways it literally takes 3 simple things to try first and if you guys like the results we will move along in small increments and I will teach you aspects youve never ever considered,,,

This mod gives insight as to the reason why TFI MODULES HAVE FAILED and Have GOTTEN A BAD RAP all these years....

Its true and I unlocked the mystery with the reason why plus give ya the solution aswell as the fix.

Do you see these items pictured in the top two pictures.............?

Well those are relays and starter solenoid. Both have coils that produce emp, so does a starter solenoid, horn relays also fuel injectors and doorlock solenoids.Even the IAC is an electromechanical solenoid thats constantly in use and in need of at the source protection.

One of these things they produce after being energized and instantly have the feed cut they produce whats called FLYBACK VOLTAGE SPIKES which is a form of EMP.

Some will say that some parts are already protected in the EEC and I agree but think of it like this...

First thing to consider that your adding the protection directly at the source eliminating noise in the wiring and you're also turning the one designed as the protection into a backup redundancy because it actually spikes back into the EEC ground......

Starter solenoids I know for a fact aren't protected neither are fuel pump circuits as flyback voltage kills ignition switches on steering columns too...

Injectors start to slowly frazzle the EEC with prolonged use and the shielding can only protect so much for so long before it chisels away at the systems health weakening it.

The TFI modules too can handle only so much flyback voltage emitted from the starter solenoid,,,EMP bursts are bad for TFI modules aswell as Halls Effect triggers......

EFI INJ systems are fed by a centralized wire from the ECU then branched off into 8 injectors and injectors are triggered by the negative...Putting a schottky diode on every injector at the power feed and ground each schottky at the fuelrail attachment screws and your injectors will run so clean and always on time youll think your dreaming.

Reason why is as the injectors constantly trip on and off rhe voltage spike actually gets higher and higher......

If you look at the Ford circuit diagram at the last picture you will see no protection at the source at the electromechanical relays that feed the EEC and the fuelpump and if you also notice the FP is attached to the EEC too so it gets a double blaster of EMP back to the EEC........

Look at the picture of the two relays side by side a lil lower look at the circuit diagrams notice a something a lil extra on the grey one...That's the at the source protection & the true effective wall of a true fortified defense.....

There's also a pic of the schottky diode mod you can do to the base of the relay plug and starter solenoid.

So Ill cut this short and leave you with a highly valuable aswell as a well worth mod to try and do and also realize this if you really 'have the ability to do the mod to the relays at the plug base you can easily buy relays that already have the diodes built into them and just do the much easier to do starter solenoid mod and once you do all three to start and see how much overall difference it makes starting idling and takeoff wise youll want more tips I can provide.

Until then Take Care All and Thanks for Having Me.

Last forum wasnt so receptive .

I hope I get a warmer welcome and meet people with an open mind to what I say...Its basic science and highly logical.

Maybe I hit them in the last forum I joined a lil too hard all at once so now to get my point across aswell help all you members out getting more enjoyability out of your truck Ill go in steps to gain your confidence in my abilities.

And once you try the mods and get awesome results please share the experience and the effects you noticed before and after with the forum so it can become known and works with even the older trucks and why the big flat EEC II-III DuraSpark boxes go boom too...Its through the starter solenoid and EEC turn on areas.

Who knows maybe Ill be given a nobel prize for putting in the effort and coming up with a logical answer as to why Fords DuraSpark boxes also TFI modules failed along with a simple and effective fix to that problem and you read it here from the guy who figured it out as you will never find any solutions anywhere else in books or on the internet this I can guarantee 100% & I wanna note this 12/17/2021 that I am the first to crack the enigma of why TFI modules and DuraSpark boxes simply quit also in process of becoming Patent Pending too..

Ciao 4 Now.


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad

 

Thank you

 

I have a 1990 f350 4x4 four door lariet 7.5l e40d transmission, I put a diode on my 2 relays fuel pump,eec and i can already notice a difference. I have a couple questions I do not know much about electrical let a lone diodes. I went to an electrical supply store in san Diego and explained what i was doing and the gentleman helped me out,after figuring out the two wires for the coil circuit I soldered in the diode, truck wouldnt start I had installed the diode backwards I switched it around started right up then the next one went smoother. With all that my questions, can I use one on my speed control wires from the rear end I have a green and red wire running from the rear end twisted the whole way up,if I can where would i install it what diode and what direction? Next question can I install a diode in line on the not hot side of my boo switch? Again whitch diode where and what direction? Last question your picture of the starter solenoid has one diode from the start post to ground is that it? Thank you for the info you posted it looks as if om going to benefit from it. And thanks in advance for answering my questions.