My friend past and I bought his truck. I could use some help as it does not seem to be stock. The truck is a 1966 Ford 250 Camper Special. It looks like a rebuilt engine with a 1965 manifold and a 2bl carb. It looks to missing hoses for the carb and some linkage for the accelerator. Any help on what parts I'm missing and where they connect would really help. I'm told the manifold is stock but the carb is not and it has an automatic choke. I'm missing two hoses on the carb and told the front one pic 7 is just open. What goes on the back one? Pic 8 and on pic 8 what wire connect to the prong coming out of the yellow part? Where does the wiper squiter connect and I have another hose just laying there at the right of the engine. New to this as I'm a pc tech an have only done basic repair on my 78 truck in the past. Thanks for any help.
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1 Accelerator cable from fire wall to carb is completely gone. You need correct cable for 66 with V-8 which should have been a 352 there is a code letter for engine in the VIN
2 The carb is a generic replacement, all over the internet, for many applications. Open fitting atop is a bowl vent for vehicles with closed to atmosphere systems, not your 66. It can probably be capped off. Your truck HAD a manual choke. Your choice either convert back to manual or supply a power wire to the electric choke that works with key in run position, look up how to wire online. The hose going to the distributor vacuum unit is correct if it advances the spark on acceleration. There MAY be a port under front center of the carb to do the same thing. It can, should be, capped off. The hose port back of carb it to supply clean filtered to the NON electric automatic choke, just cap it off.
3 The bag on left fender well is windshield washer resivoir, hose out goes to little electric pump nearby. from pump goes a hose the tee in hoses going to squirters. these hoses become brittle with age and crack, break, snap off. should replace new to be trouble free.
4 Tab on electric choke housing is to power the heating element in choke housing, so it can open. The yellow cap below, rearward is the other fitting for the Non electric choke. It and the fresh filtered air would go to the Right hand exhaust manifold to get hot air to open choke. See the two holes in manifold under # 4 spark plug. There are steel tubings required for that type of hook up. Info 1 thru 4 is correct.

5 Now for the Big Glitch. Your truck should have had PCV system. The valve cover with the breather caps are not correct for a 1966 engine. The date code says 1965, yes, but no matter, thats when the manifold was cast. There is a good chance this engine has been replaced by who knows what year or cubic inch. Could be a 332, 352, 390, possibly a 360. if you want to try, do online search of how to determine cubic inches of a Ford FE engine. not simple.

6 Is that Air conditioning hooked up???

 

Thank you very much for the great information! I will go through each one of these tomorrow. AC, probably not. I will check it.

 

I was able to locate the previous owner before my buddy and he just told me that it has the original engine which is a 352 with now 54k miles on it. He bought it from his wifes family and will try to contact them about the carb. Going to the parts needed this week or next and will touch base when done. Thanks

 

You might ask why the older valve covers with breathers instead closed PCV system from factory. Just an FYI, all FE blocks have 352 cast in front below left cyl head. That does not mean it's a 352. Also, speedometer mileage only goes to 99,999 miles then turns over to zero again.

 

Can't I just buy a few parts and put it back to stock with PCV?

 

Be good to go back to stock. BUT do everything else your involved in First. All you asked about. You want get it running and see how it runs. If does NOT, sit there idling smoothly, accelerate smoothly, has a hesitation, you might address some of the reasons why. This is an Old truck, It could have 154,000 miles on it. I and hopefully some others will walk you thru what come your way. AND by the way all your pictures are great, We like pictures.

 

I added the caps to carb ports, used seafoam in the intake. I can start it on the second try after sitting all night but still running rough. I can't get it over 40 mph without backfire through each gear. Do you see an electronic ignition in the pics? If so I need to set the plugs to .045 gap instead of .035

 

Being brief is not me, LOL. But here goes. On Left exhaust manifold where the pipe attaches, there is a heat rizer valve. Closed cold, it directs hot exhaust thru a center port in the heads and under center of intake manifold to heat the plenum where raw gas from carb is converted to a vapor. When the plenum does not heat any more it is the Major cause of back firing thru the carb because the fuel stays wet. With a manual choke you can leave partially applied and get rid of the stumble/backfire. Remove distributor cap and take a picture of inside and can tell if converted to electronic. See #4 plug wire is replaced in your pic. Other wires could be bad. You need to get the engine running smoothly on all cylinders before considering going on a road test. Research doing a basic Tune Up on your year trucks 352/390 engine instead of me writing about it here and you could prob print it out for reference.

 

I need to mention this, because a lot about it out there. A lot of claims of not needing it. In colder climates the inside of throttle bores can freeze until engine warms up enough to warm the carb throttle plate area. Read this link from FTE. Number Dummy is Bill Wilson, retired Ford Parts Guru. He usually responds to threads on this site. Have not heard him in a while. I do Pray he is OK and will be back with us soon.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1380659-1966-ford-f100-352-2bbl-automatic-heat-riser-valve.html

picture of valve. Cold you should be able to move the counter weight thru its range and have it spring back to the closed position. They're often frozen and stuck closed, causing exhaust restriction to the left hand cylinders.

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...BAgEEAE&biw=1366&bih=626#imgrc=bKfO7gb247NGDM

What part of country are you? do have to deal with winter conditions? Google search about 66 ford truck EFE system. EFE = Early Fuel Evaporation. Should cover about heat riser and heated air to air filter housing from right hand exhaust manifold.

 

Sorry I forgot. You have spark plug gap backwards. Stock ignition with points and condenser, plug gap is .035. Depending on type of electronic ignition, you could POSSIBLY open the gap to .045.

 

I'm in North Carolina. Would the heat rizer be causing this backfire issue in this warm weather? I'll get some pics after work in the morning.

 

Heat Riser could contribute to the backfire. But You need to regap plugs to .035. Recheck the firing order and make sure spark plug wires are on the correct cylinders and engine is running smooth on all 8 cylinders, no misfires. Have you looked to see if it has points and condenser ignition? If yes did you inspect the points for being burnt and pitted?? Did you check the point gap?? Have you put a timing light on it to check the timing at curb idle with vacuum line to distributor disconnected and plugged?? This is all part of a basic tune up and need to be correct before looking elsewhere for your backfire thru the carb. If you took the truck to a repair shop with your problem, they would do ALL I'm questioning, plus a compression test.