Solved Rockwood Freedom 1640

Discussion in 'Towing, RV's, Campers and 5th Wheels' started by bigrigfixer, Feb 28, 2021.

< Previous Thread | Next Thread >
  1. bigrigfixer Article Contributor Founding Member Canadian Chapter

    I'd have to check the registration, but it's either a 2014 or 2016. We got it last spring after we sold the Trav-L-Mate project. Really simplified a lot of things, and I gained back a bunch of storage space in my garage.

    Anyway, it's a pretty basic tent trailer. Dry place to sleep off the ground, kids don't need as much "stuff" when we're camping now, so we were ready to downsize. But being completely stock, there were a few things that needed upgrading.

    We needed 12 volt outlets for 2 cpap machines. A bunch of usb outlets were on the wish list. Work lights would be nice. Solar panels, charge controller, voltmeter. After the first camping trip, we realized the single 12 volt battery wasn't gonna last a weeklong trip, so we upgraded to a pair of 6 volts. After the third trip, I had enough of the hand crank tongue jack. So if I can find some pics of the updates I've made over the last year, I'll put them in.

    Okay, first off, here is the truck and trailer combo.
    20200620_104945.jpg #ad
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2021
    Tags:
  2. bigrigfixer Article Contributor Founding Member Canadian Chapter

    Found a 100 watt suitcase solar panel setup on Amazon. It had an integral charge controller, and came with a Zamp connector. Apparently the file is too large to upload, so I'll have to find another way later. But with it being portable, the cord it came with was a little on the short side, so I got a set of jumper cables also from Amazon and cut the clamps off, and I went with some high current quick connect plugs to replace the tiny Zamp connector.
    20210228_140912.jpg #ad

    From that quick connect, can connect the bench top battery charger, since I put an end on that too. I kept the terminal clamps for when I have to charge another battery, like say my truck, or whatever.

    I also put in a battery cutoff switch, from a local supplier. Cuts off power to the trailer from the battery except for the brakes and the tongue jack.
    20210228_140903.jpg #ad


    And to keep on top of the battery voltage, I found a module that had a volt meter, a switch, a usb and a 12 volt outlet, so I bought a bunch of these from eBay.
    20210228_140730.jpg #ad

    The voltmeter is on the bottom right, 12 volt outlet here is more for blowing up inflatables. The switch on the lower left is to power up the work lights under the trailer, which give off a nice ambiance.
    20210228_140702.jpg #ad

    This trailer only came with two stabilizer jacks in the back, so I added two more to the front. Can't remember if I got them from the same local supplier as the cutoff switch, or if I got them from Amazon. But the work lights were takeoff units from decommissioned trucks at work.

    Got these 6 volt batteries installed, in a position that the previous owner had decided was a better spot than the original. What they did was convert to a dual propane tank setup, which meant they had to move the battery. Well, the new spot was over top of the lift winch. But since they only had a single 12, the bracket they made had to be extended to for two 6's. And to keep the wiring a bit neater, I found a Camco dual battery box at an rv parts store. Amazon was somehow sold out and the price on eBay couldn't beat the rv store.
    20210228_140959.jpg #ad


    And the last thing we added was the power tongue jack, got this from Princess Auto.
    20210228_140842.jpg #ad


    Took the old hand crank one off because it interfered with the battery box as we rotated the handle. Almost a direct bolt on, but the tube wouldn't go through the lower hole, so I had to enlarge it a bit. Hole saw and die grinding got it done.
    20210211_211713.jpg #ad

    Primed and painted the bare metal, but in the cold garage, I had to use a trouble light to keep the area warm.

    The only thing I'd like to get now is a jack wheel that fits the new jack, so I can roll it around. Either that or I modify the old one, but I want to keep that as is, in case I have to put the old jack back on.

    One thing that's been a pet peeve of mine, since getting my F150, is the fact that I can't lower the tailgate since the bed is so high. Our other previous trailers needed weight distribution, so there was nothing I could do about it. But now that we have a lightweight tent trailer, I need to get a hitch that comes out like 3" more. Then I'll be able to get the tailgate up and down without hitting the tongue jack.
     
    XDM45 likes this.
  3. Seabiscuit Volunteer Moderator Vet Zone Vet Zone Leader Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    Howdy, long time no see.

    Looking pretty good there. Nice looking set up. An extended stinger getting you back far enough to open the tail gate will be an easy find. They also have extensions of various lengths you can stick in the receiver and then stick your stinger and bll into that. A trailer of your size and weight would have no problems with them.

    The pop ups fade in and out around here. Used to see quite a few, but now not quite as many. The R-Pods, Tear drop and trunk trailer mini's are showing some real popularity.
    Forest River bought the old Liberty Manufactured Homes plant just a short distance down the road from me. The were making just a couple of models of R Pods there. One hard size model and one little slider model. Now they have moved production lines for a number of different models that Forest River makes. Judging from the number of units I see stacking up out in the storage lots - it would appear they are getting prepared for a stellar season.

    What type of Solar suit case did you pick up? I'm going to be picking up a 100 watt suitcase type for the boat. Maybe supplement the camper with it.
    We have two 12 volts in our camper. We have have 200 Watts of solar on the roof for recharging which optimally would be good for 10 amps. Been looking at putting an additional 200W on the roof. Most likely here in Oregon, we'd never see more than 12 or 13. Works pretty good out in the Eastern Oregon Desert. Works good in the High Cascades as long as we aren't covered by forest canopy. They lit off like lightening bolt when we took our trip from Oregon last summer and fall and got down to Utah, Arizona New Mexico and Texas. The farther south we got, the better they worked. Actually saw 9 and 10 amp charging out of them down there.

    Looks like you are getting all set up to have some fun.

    Don't be a stranger and share some of your adventures in the woods up there.

    BTW...I use Image resizer for down sizing pictures. Works really well. Lets you retain the original so you don't have to make a copy to begin with.
    Release v3.1.2 · bricelam/ImageResizer · GitHub
    I'll probably be changing to Microsoft Power Toys Image Resizer before too long.

    DSC_2271.JPG DSC_2272 cropped.jpg Tow Bar 1.jpg
     
    XDM45 and bigrigfixer like this.
  4. bigrigfixer Article Contributor Founding Member Canadian Chapter

    This is the suitcase solar panel I got.



    This particular one isn't available anymore, but there are other options.
     
  5. Seabiscuit Volunteer Moderator Vet Zone Vet Zone Leader Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    Doesn't look too bad for 120 Watts. Yea, I didn't see it in the Amazon Canada link you had. It appears to be available for Amazon US. Isn't that weird?

    10, 25 and 120w models. the 120w is $178

    I had been looking at single panel 100w with controller and stand as it would be easier in the boat. But I like the extra 20 watts, especially if I supplement the power to the camper with it.
     
< Previous Thread | Next Thread >
Loading...
virtuoso