Hi, I normally just use old motor oil to protect my truck frames from rust. Is there a rust protection product that anyone would recommend? The frame on my 09 Ranger's in pretty good shape, but I'd like to keep it that way.

Thanks, Smitty

 

personally due to where i live in a heavy road salt use state where cars and trucks 5 years old like all heck , i fluid film the snot of all my drivers ,it does help esp when applied to a new car or truck https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/

 

Thanks!

 

I too live in the land of salt and rust. Funny, my grandfather was a mechanic and whenever he changed the oil he would rub the old oil into the frame and body. My grandmother used to complain that she had oil and grease on every dress she owned. That was a very long time ago indeed so it's interesting to hear of someone doing the same thing now.

I put POR-15 rust preventative on virtually every steel part that I remove and replace. This is mostly brackets, dust shields, etc. I grind off the rust with a wire brush wheel and sander and then prep with e POR-15 metal prep. This chemically stops the rusting process and provides a good surface for the paint to adhere to. I then apply 2-3 coats of rust preventative and then 2-3 coats of top coat. I like their caliper paint for top coat. It is very heavy and stands up to heat. This is an acrylic lacquer and so can be applied 3-4 coats in a day. I have used this system on brake calipers, control arms, dust shields, etc. I have also used it in body rust repair. It would be some work to do this on your frame but I think it would give good results. I would use their chassis paint for the top coat unless you want to splurge for 2K.

Auto body professionals would probably recommend something like an SEM epoxy primer or self etching primer. I am sure these work very well but they are very expensive and hard to buy. They always seem to come in very large sizes for auto body shops and such. POR-15 is not cheap for a paint, but a $50 can of the rust preventative goes a long way. The only aside is that you have to transfer it to a glass jar to store it for any length of time. If you use some of it and replace the lid, you will never get the lid off again. You have to put a piece of plastic wrap between the lid and the can if you want to be able to take the lid off and put it back on. The paint dries out quickly when you do this. I use a quart mason jar and wipe the threads with lacquer thinner and it works just fine.

LMHmedchem

 

Thanks!

 

As with any other painting job, surface preparation is the most important step. The next most important thing is application according to the manufactures instructions. If you want to try this, you can buy POR-15 in very small sizes. I would do that and give it a try on an area of the frame you have good access to. Evaluate how manageable the task is and see if it makes sense for you to do more.

At this point, every bracket and metal whatever that comes off of my truck gets painted before it goes back on. I also replace nuts and bolts with new hardware from McMaster-Carr or Belmetric with a good anti-corrosion coating (for load bearing fasteners) or 316(A4) marine stainless (for non-load bearing fasteners).

I would be tempted to try the fluid-film coating suggested above after the paint. It looks like it goes on like a wax but I'm not sure.

Please feel free to ask questions about the process.

LMHmedchem

 

Good point. Thanks.