Rusty Issues ('86 F-250 7.5L 460 V8) - Battery/Alternator

Discussion in '1980 - 1986 Ford F150, F250 and F350 Truck Forum' started by RustyTruckGal86, Dec 24, 2016.

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  1. RustyTruckGal86

    So I've got a few pics of the battery system but I don't think I got the alternator in the pics but I can try to get those unless someone sees it in the pics and can point it out. I've marked the areas that were of concern (where the battery cables were melting and the unknown wire that we thought was originally shorting out the battery because it was touching the solenoid.

    Hopefully I marked things well enough for you guys. I'll find out where the alternator is exactly and get pics of those as soon as I can.

    Rusty's Battery System.jpg #ad
    20161220_130226.jpg #ad
     
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  2. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    The unknown wire is after market to a circuit breaker .
    Are you asking for the location of your alternator ?
     
  3. RustyTruckGal86

    My dad knows where it's at but I've not looked at the engine since I took those pictures but if you can see in the photos you're welcome to point it out, LOL. :)

    BTW, why would there be an after-market cable to circuit breaker? (I'm still quite a newbie so forgive my newbie questions.)
     
  4. JWC 3 TOTM Winner Founding Member

    Sometimes people add accessories ,lamps ,brake controllers .
     
  5. Seabiscuit Volunteer Moderator Vet Zone Vet Zone Leader Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    It's not in the pics. Your jack bracket is empty and someone has done some wiring modification as the red and white wire coming across the front top of the radiator is not OEM. The hook those wires are in is where the OEM jack handle / crank is supposed to be. Looks like maybe a marker light has been rewired.
     
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  6. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    I only see 1 fuseable link on the solenoid too
    Should be 3

    Me thinks someone has done a little re-designing
    Time for the 3 G alternator upgrade, with a new wire harness. get me a pic of the alt on the truck, I will tell you what you have, and if it isn't 3G, I will do a write up in the articles section on how to, and what parts you need, where to get them from
     
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  7. RustyTruckGal86

    Sorry for the late reply, been a crazy holiday and with the snow we've gotten I've not been able to take a look at Rusty. I'm hoping today I will since it is my day off.

    dustybumpers, I'll see if I can get a pic today...there's about a foot of snow on everything out here. LOL
     
  8. RustyTruckGal86

    Hi, y'all. I got pictures of Rusty's engine and while having the hood open, thought I'd add some stop leak to the oil to try help the rear main seal. Well, the yellow cap you can see in the pictures, the hose coming out of the top of it won't stay attached like it's supposed to the side of big circular thing in the center (sorry, I don't know what it's called yet and I'm a tad frustrated right now :shifty:). And that's where the oil goes according to Ted if I remember correctly but the whole assembly there seems to be falling apart. :facepalm: (I really hate not knowing the names to the parts of the engine and my dad's not much help because he's not a car guy).

    Anyway, below are the pictures. I took a bunch so forgive the overload--I didn't know which ones would turn out best. I was standing on a step stool to try to get decent shots...being fun sized isn't always that much fun...:cold: I hope one of the pictures shows the alternator.

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  9. 1970something TOTM Winner Founding Member

    alternator is down low on the passenger side under the bracket with the missing emissions pump.(don't worry, that pump is not needed)

    unfortunately i don't think you got a clear enough picture of the alternator to determine what type it is.
    but we will see what Charlie says if the warden ever lets him back on the computer.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2017
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  10. Seabiscuit Volunteer Moderator Vet Zone Vet Zone Leader Oregon Chapter Founding Member

    20170102_145851.jpg #ad


    Alternator on Pax side at yellow arrow like he said. Air pump delete is good.

    Yellow cap is as marked. Probably need a new cap and if your mechanic didn't replace it, a PCV valve while your at it. PCV valves should "rattle" when you shake them. If it looks discolored and old, replace it anyway. Only around $3.00. PCV valve slips on the end of the hose and goes into the hole in the cap which should have a grommet in it. If it keeps coming out of the cap you have, the grommet is shot at the very least. You might have to replace the hose, check for cracks - stiffness and proper lengths. Sometimes a split end gets trimmed off and the PO may not have recognized he had trimmed an inch too much.
    You can replace them for less than $10 -$12.
     
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  11. RustyTruckGal86

    Another thing to add to the list...sigh. Yeah, nothing on that yellow cap assembly has been replaced.

    I'll try tomorrow to get a better shot of the alternator now that I know where it's at. Thanks for your patience with this newbie, y'all.
     
  12. 1970something TOTM Winner Founding Member

    mehhhh. everyone needs to learn, and we become learned and then become teachers sooner or later.
    just wait till you gets smart like us are, then you can be a teacherer too!!!
     
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  13. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    Been out of town
    Are ya'll sure it's not missing the alternator?
    This bracket is from a 460
    005.JPG #ad


    Any who......
    this truck probably has a 2 G alternator ( SHOULD HAVE)
    You can tell by the fan on the front, and the wire harness
    014.JPG #ad

    008.JPG #ad


    Bigest problem, these had a wire harness problem, that overheated, and caught fire.
    You replaced the harness with this repaur kit
    009.JPG #ad


    This was still not a cure, they still overheated, and melted the harness

    Best cure is the 3G
    This was first available in the Taurus wagon.
    It comes as a 1 wire alternator, fused, and gives 95 amps of charge
    You can tell them by the lack of a cooling fan
    013.JPG #ad


    They wire up a bit different, using only a key wire, a charge wire, and a fused wire from the battery
    015.JPG #ad
     
  14. 1970something TOTM Winner Founding Member

    Charlie, in picture #4 you can just barely see cooling fins, so i would have to say still has the 2G on it.
     
  15. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    Your right, I see it in #2 as well.
    Something I DON'T see is fusable link off the solenoid, so I'm betting that burned out, and there is no power to it

    That would explain the dim headlights, and the battery not charging

    You need a power supply to it , and a key power to excite the fields for it to charge
     
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