I have a 66 f250 camper special. Manual steering with a 4 speed on the floor. At the bottom of the column there is a rag joint when it meets the steering box. I ordered the proper connector for my vin but it isn't the same as the bottom of the column. The column may not be the original and there does seem to be some jenky welds at the coupler. Can anyone look at these coupler pics and tell me whet I need. I can weld the lug back into the adapter if I can get the proper joint. I will mention this column seems too long, there is a gap in the uh shrouds that sit between the steering wheel and you can see the springs and stuff in there,

#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad

 

looks like they have come out with a better replacement for that old RAG joint. what i see in the photo is a plastic replacement that simply bolts in and replaces the old .

 

@captchas you are right, that's the replacement for my vin. Its a modern upgrade but it isn't the same as my column. My colum has a flange that bolts into 3 of the holes and has one...index pin?. The joint they sent me indexes in 2 places and fastens in 2.
@FTZ HAIC Im not sure how to measure it. From flange to horn is 36". As I compared the flange to the coupler I saw how bad it is warped. I would like to get an original column but if that cant be done is there a real good aftermarket you guys can suggest?

#ad


#ad

 

In the first pic, the safety loops that are only suppose engage the pins built into the RAG Joint are worn away because the rag joint wore out years ago and was never replaced as it should have. A previous owner had that eye welded onto the flange on the end of the inner column shaft so he could keep steering the truck. If you don't get another inner shaft right now, at least cut that welded piece out. The pins are there as a safety so you don't lose steering if the rag joint fails, the pins normally don't contact the flange. I don't have a picture to show you how the flange looks with no damage, you could have you flange just built up with some weld to it's stock appearance.

Also first pic, the collar with bolt lock holes pushes up the shaft against the lower column/shaft bearing which is wiped out and gone, you need to get a new one. The updated rag joint looks fine so long as the splined end that goes on the steering box input shaft is correct. I can't remember if the input shaft has a flat spot so rag joint can only go on one way, Because all from there to the steering wheel, need to be aligned so the steering wheel window, for you to see your gauges thru and your signal light cancellation will be correct. More on all that as you put it all together.

See the copper strap on the new rag joint it is there to complete the ground circuit so your horn can blow from the button on the steer wheel . See 2 different size pins on the rag joint, it aligns the rag joint to the shaft so it won't be 180 degrees off, again pertaining to your steering wheel being in it's correct position. If you had the stock steering wheel, there would be a corresponding hash mark to align with the one on the shaft.

Don't be alarmed about the length of the column or the gap behind the steering wheel, all should be okay once put back together again. Do remove the horn button from the steering wheel and look at the nut and shaft, on the flat surface of the shaft, where the nut threads on you will see a slash or hash mark about 1/8th long. That mark will be at 12 o'clock when all assemble correctly.

The only glitch I see is that is not a stock correct steering wheel for the truck. It may be a later Ford sport steering wheel or after market to use on you column and have the horn and sig cancellation functions work properly.

Finally do look at your front cab mounts and see if they are sound or rotted and collapsed. When they deteriorate and collapse, the steering column actually tries to support the cab on the drivers side and the rag joint and lower bearing take the brunt of doing that.

Cap

 

@iicap thanks for hitting me back. I have decided to tear this thing down and it is a mess. Every bolt was loose and I didn't need a puller for anything. That is an aftermarket wheel, I'm pretty sure it is from lmc. I do have the original but it needs repair. The last owner did a lot of dress up kind of things. You are right about the bearings. The bottom ones are shot and the top ones are gritty. Those "index lugs" were my big issue. They are factory on some chevy and international shafts but I couldn't find them on the ford shaft. Those extra lugs were odd and no one knew what I was talking about lol. I thought the welds looked bad but I really didn't know what a 1966 weld looked like. I tried to straighten the other one out and it is definitely a farmer weld. I might clean it up and weld it back in though. It does fit the pin well. On the other I am going to look for a non worn shaft as I order parts tonight. I did see a lot of discussion on cab mounts so I am just going to order new kits for everything. Might as well right? You seem to know these trucks, can you tell me what this switch is for at the base of the column? Thanks for all your help.

#ad


#ad

 

Z, If the first picture is what was welded on the inner steer shaft at he rag joint, which I said remove. DON'T put it and another back, they don't belong there. The pins on the rag joint don't go into anything. I am away, by this weekend I'll post a pic of the shaft in good condition.

Now the second picture. Definitely not a Ford Item. We see a piece of Bead Chain showing on each side of the body and thinking the body is a guide for the chain to slide. My WILDEST thought, If that firewall flange it is attached to, came from a 3 speed column shift truck, or your truck was 3 speed factory and someone converted it to 4 speed, it may have been part of a homemade backup light switch operating mechanism. The 66 F-250 parts truck in my back yard came factory 3 speed, column shift transmission, 240 six engine. AFIK, there was no backup lights offered in 66, so no transmission mounted switch. IT would be interesting if you would post a clear picture of the Factory Warranty Plate on your left hand door and we can tell most all about the truck as it left the factory.

Do inspect those cab mounts, you Don't want to change if not necessary. Cap

 

@iicap Yeah that was welded on. In an earlier photo is the one that was welded on the other side. They must have drilled out the rag joint on that side because it was bolted clean through. Thats what caused my confusion. I thought I got the wrong rag joint. I found some good photos of the shaft as well as a blow apart for the column. I ordered most the stuff to rebuild everything. The only question I couldn't answer is the lower bearing seal. The one on my shaft has a cone shape to it. All of them I found seem flat in the pics. As you can see in my first pic my seal is shot as shot can be. I cant really tell what it was. Either way makes sense to me though. The light theory for that part is a good one. I was on that path. It does have rusted electrical terminals on it. So it may turn something on and off. I was thinking some sort of auto turn signal switch of the future concept from the 60s. I found a vin decoder online but there wasn't a great deal of info available. Here's that pic. Thanks for your help. I'm sure I'm not out of questions before I'm done with this thing.

#ad

 

Warranty Plate Breakdown.
F25................................................61-66, 2 wheel drive
Y....................................................352 V-8 engine
K....................................................Built Kansas City Plant
752974...........................................Built Sept 1965
129.................................................129" is a long wheelbase (LWB) truck - F100/F250
M...................................................M Wimbledon White
F-250............................................F250 64-66 2 Wheel Drive 7500 F250 4x2
B81................................................81B 61-66 Custom Cab ( From Me, the B may have double purpose and also be the interior code. See next line).
B F100/350 (81B) Medium blue crush vinyl and medium blue cody pattern woven plastic
A....................................................66, 4 Synchronized Manual New Process 435
24..................................................4.10 (5.2M) Dana/Spicer 60 (rear axle)
07500............................................GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight)
172-4000.................................***172-horsepower at 4000 RPMs***
DSO...............................................Phoenix 75 (Phoenix, district it was ordered in), 75 ( Standard production, no dealer specified options)

***Note From Me. 172-4000 is not the specified HP & RPM listed in breakdown for the 1966, 352 V-8 which is listed as 208 HP at 4400 RPM

You can verify that this Warranty Plate is a match to the chassis and not changed by someone. Give info in next reply. Cap

 

LOCATING YOUR V.I.N. STAMPINGS ON THE FRAME
In addition to the V.I.N. on the driver's door data plate, the number is also stamped on the frame in two different places, both on the topside of the right frame rail. The first one is in the engine compartment, just below the alternator on two-wheel-drive pickups or just behind the front axle on four-wheel-drive pickups.

The second number is stamped just under where the seat would be located. You'll likely need a flashlight and small mirror to read this one.

These frame stamps are usually hard to read, so be sure to grab a wire brush and some rags to clean the grime off. (NOTE: the picture at right is a '67 frame, but the stampings should be located in the same locations. There have also be isolated reports of a VIN found stamped in non-typical locations, such as on the left-side frame rail under the seat area.)

#ad

CLICK TO ENLARGE

 

I am nowhere near ripping into the frame lol. Thanks for the decode help though. I thought I would stop in and give an update on the column. Bought ALL the parts and did a full rebuild. I know it sounds like a lot, but this is an old manual steering and simpler than I could have imagined before I pulled it apart. I am not completely done with it yet, still have to figure out why my rear flashers aren't working and I have to get the original steering wheel repaired. I left the column in primer so when I decide what colors the truck will be I can match it. Thanks again for the help in understanding that flange, had me all sorts of confused. I did run into another issue of the captured nut spinning and not having a way to stop it. You can see the damage from me cutting it off to get the column out. I ended up drilling it out and using a rivet nut. As I drilled it destroyed the extra metal that held the nut in. I dont think it is an issue but what do yall think, is it strong enough without the extra welded bracket that holds the nut in? I will also add that I did the ignition stuff short of the rotor. She runs real strong now. I think that sounds like an update and the end of this thread. I will start new ones as new problems arise. Thanks again for all the help! oh and a picture of it after the first bath in 2 years. #ad

 

Good looking truck!, thanks on comeback, we all like to see results. And I apologize, I said I'd send a pic of the end of the column shaft with bolt holes and safety slots and didn't, sorry!