WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK
PART II
WHERE TO START

So....you've driven/hauled/drug your new project home and stared at it sitting in the driveway for over a week. Your wife has walked around it, shook her head and headed back to the kitchen wordless. The dog has marked all four tires. Now you're wandering down the information superhighway searching for revelations on your new prize.. Welcome to the rest stop on the Information highway for newcomers (newbies) to old Ford trucks.....

Let's assume that at this point you already have a truck or are still at the very least, seriously looking for a truck armed with the information from Part I above..

FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS..... Your very first task and this can even be done before your purchase... Think seriously about what you want from this truck...

Will it be a work truck for trips to the hardware store or nursery?

Will it be a weekend driver for cruise-in fun, car shows and weekend enjoyment ?

Will it be a daily driver ? Your principle mode of transportation ?

Will it be a show truck or trailer queen that is only pushed or driven onto or into trailers and featured at high bling, high dollar car shows ... jacked up over mirrors and surrounded by a corral and high intensity lighting... or perhaps on a turntable. ???

This will be a cooperative effort between you and your truck... it might help to sit behind the wheel and rest your arm on the window sill as you contemplate your future together. Ask your truck what it wants to be and how it wants to look. It WILL reveal the answers to you. Hold the wheel and make vvvvvrrrrroooommmm sounds like you going through the gears. Does it sound right... does it feel right ??? Or try making a humming sound... hhhhhmmmmmmm like you're cruising down the freeway on the way to a weekend car show...Imagine 'road tunes' playing on the imaginary radio... does that feel better ?? The answers await you if you listen.

This mutually agreeable decision will lead you down one (or two) major paths with little side roads...some of those paths and roads are straight and easy, others are winding and treacherous with switchbacks, washed out bridges and several u-turns.

FORKS IN THE ROAD...

Your next first decision (after the above first decision) will be... do you want to start driving the truck right now or after you've completed your repairs/restoration/rodding. Having a running vehicle to enjoy is good motivation to continue your improvements. If this is the case, I'd recommend making changes/repairs that will contribute to the safety of you and your family. Repair or upgrade the brake system. Give the engine a going over. Change the fluids & filters...points and plugs...flush out the fuel system. Go over the wiring and cables to get the juices flowing. Of course, tires and drive train need an inspection. Once you get it road worthy you can enjoy the ride while you work on your plan.

On the other hand .. if you're itching to build your dream truck or it's too far gone to make it safe... forge ahead with a total frame off project...

Now that you have decided what your truck will do and be, you need to decide how you want it to look...

CHOICE ONE..... RESTORATION.

You want it to look like the original, right ?? Everybody loves to see an old truck drive by... they wave and smile and think about their daddy's or granddaddy's old truck that looked like yours...except it was a different color and a had flat bed and it was a Studebaker and one fender was smashed in... you WILL hear this story !

Fork # 1
Now.... Do you want a total restoration that includes period correct cloth covered wire, 6 volt electrical system, generator, color correct inspection paint daubs on the firewall, itchy seat covers and bias ply tires?? OR do you want something that 'looks' original but has been updated to include real brakes, 12 volt (reliable) electrical system, auto transmission, power steering, 6 way lumbar support seating and seat belts ? The folks will still wave, smile and tell you that Studebaker story... but you'll be more comfortable/safe riding by.

Editorial note..... It might be the proper place to interject here that as each one of these forks are chosen, consider this... it's important. There is an associated commitment ... both physical and financial. Not a finite commitment ... but a commitment just the same. The amount of energy and treasury is different for each path and has no ceiling nor limit on width, depth or time. I'd love to give you estimates... but there are none. More on this later....and a link to more info. Back to the paths...

Total Restoration
A restoration (for those who don't know the difference yet) is a project that attempts to rebuild or reproduce a car or truck to original condition. Some are extremely accurate, right down to the inspection marks made in the factory with paint daubers, correctly color coded cloth covered wire laced together with waxed string and perfectly reproduced engine decals. Others are as simple as staying true to original paint colors and rubber mats, using original parts or reproductions. The meticulously restored "Concours" type are rarely driven, sometimes never cranked and usually trailered to events. The cost can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars for exotic models. But, many are drivers that are enjoyed daily by their owners and those of us that spot them in grocery store lots and wave at them along the road. These can usually have a few thousand dollars invested and for my money are the best 'restoration' projects and the most fun to do.
If you are going for a 100 point concours restoration some other rules apply. For one don't buy the best car you can afford, buy the absolute best truck available. The money you pay up front for a restored show car is a fraction of what you will spend getting a car to that level of restoration. Another item to consider for restored cars concerns originality and history. A car with a documented history of famous owners, competition or a landmark design feature is considered more valuable because of its history and originality. In the antique world it is called provenance and has marketable value. Since the ugly subject of filthy lucre has reared its head, there is one thing that needs to be explained right up front. This hobby is not about profit. Very few people ever recover the expense of building a restored car or a street rod.

I imagine most of us aren't aiming for the Pebble Beach level of fit and finish or harbor a hunka hunka burning desire to own one of Elvis' Cadillac's. But one of the rules above still applies...buy the best car out there, not the best you can afford. The better the condition of the car when you start a project , the easier your job will be.

Updated Restoration...

This is the path that many take, and it is a prudent one and can be much less costly than a Concours restoration. Many of the purist will search for months for one accessory or part and spend Jr's. college tuition funds to get it. With the 'updated' path you can pick and choose the 'hidden' operational or comfort parts while keeping the outside appearance of the truck stock looking. You can add safety upgrades... disc brakes and seat belts and still maintain your 'old truck look'. There are many aftermarket vendors who produce add-on or replacement parts that work as well or better than the originals. Upgrades include both front and rear independent suspension systems, twelve volt conversions and wiring kits, air conditioning, seat belts, power brakes and steering.

There are any number of engine/transmission choices that you can put in these old trucks as well as gear ratios that will make you a terror on the ¼ mile... or make for a delightful cruise down the freeway. Here you can mix and match what suits you and your needs/wants to make your 'restoration' comfortable, safe and fun ...your limits are only your imagination and budget.


RODDING YOUR TRUCK the other fork...

The street rod approach follows much the same path as a restoration, but it's much less restrictive. With a rod, you can make changes...as many and as radical as you'd like. Some folks (those restoration guys) refer to us rodders as living on 'the dark side'. An example ?? I'm building a 1953 F-100. So far I've changed both front and rear suspension, added disc brakes, automatic transmission, larger engine, and removed all door handles and locks. I've added a different seat, and a fiberglass tilt front end. It's still a '53 F-100, but it's my idea of a '53 F-100. That's what custom street rods are all about. Look at all the magazines... go to the shows and steal every idea you like. Take pictures so you can remember the details. Trust me... when you go to a show with 500 + vehicles, things tend to run together in your mind... Kodak never forgets.

Editorial Note II.....Another point you should consider before heading down one of these paths.. The use of this truck just might include spouses and other family members. If you're envisioning a full blown gasser and your wife is picturing a 'cute' restored truck for weekend trips to her favorite B&B or for tailgating at homecoming... there is going to be a problem... input from others might be helpful and considerate.

RESOURCES
If you're reading this, you are already aware of the Ford Truck Enthusiasts Website. No matter what model you choose or what year class... there is a wealth of information accumulated there in forum archives and articles. The greatest resources are the members, many of whom have been there and done that and can lead you around many expensive mis-steps and pitfalls. Plus they are a great support group for your addiction. We have a program but it has many more than 12 steps.
You need to start gathering your resources and building a knowledge base here. Buy a shop manual... you can find them at Osborn Reproductions ( http://www.osborn-reproduction.com/ ) or other truck book sites. Give Mid-50 F-100 a call or go to www.midfifty.com and order a catalog... they have the best breakdown pictures of assemblies and complete "I need it all" parts kits available. All the sales people are knowledgeable and can provide you with lots of tech info and suggestions.

Go to a bookstore... find the magazine section and look for Classic Truck and Custom Classic Truck magazines... sadly both of these, that were once good fab-it-yourself magazines are turning into "bolt on our advertisers stuff" article collections... but they do offer a good selection of vendors that sell what you will want/need/lust for. Order catalogs from the vendors. Not only do they show all the latest 'stuff' you need but usually have good tech information and drawings. Call the vendors and discuss your plan with them. Many of them are truck builders also and can steer you away from problems and mistakes before you make them... both in time and money. Check the 1948-1960 F-100 forum on the FTZ website for comments on specific suppliers. The guys there call a spade a spade.

Plan on attending the F-100 Supernationals in Pigeon Forge, Tn. (in May) or the Great Smoky Mountain F-100 Run in Pigeon Forge (in June).There are other shows and gatherings on the left coast also... the Western Nationals event is one example. The magazines often have schedules of the shows across the country. You can see hundreds of fine examples. Many are what you wish you could do but can't afford !! and some that you can.. Vendors are available and ready to serve you. Do a little googling on the net looking for clubs or truck groups.. attend their events and ask about joining and membership... They are always looking for new members. Lots of the groups sponsor charity events and fund raisers that donate to specific local charities. Besides the camaraderie they offer you an opportunity to help others.

COMMON PATHS

No matter which path you choose...restoration, update or street rod, there is a sequence of events that you sorta have to follow... for instance you don't paint before body work. That may be a over simplified example but hopefully it gets you thinking about what needs to be done in what order... and helps you a little later with the cost estimate (like there is a way to accurately estimate cost HA!)

I used a computer and spreadsheet software. You could just as easily use a spiral notebook or a three ring binder... draw some columns. List your activities or parts needed, whether you can or can't do them...the cost (from catalogs or estimates from shops) and a status column to keep you caught up and knowing where you are. Don't laugh... you can get lost at times and forget to do some small thing that will be impossible to do later after other parts have been assembled or finished.

SEQ	DESCRIPTION	ME	OTHERS	COST	STATUS
23	Replace front suspension	.	X	1500	scheduled
24	Buy Ididit Column	x	.	300	ordered 6-08
25	Buy Borgeson joints	x	.	350	ordered 6/11
26	Install column and linkage	x	.	0	after suspension is complete

Do this for all the things you can identify... leave a few blank lines for things you're bound to forget. (this is where a spreadsheet is sweet... you can easily add columns and it calculates cost automatically)
Your table will grow and expand.. usually vertically as you add supplemental items. For instance... here's an example of an Excel table that lists the suspension/frame section. The sequence column lets you sequence the work as you wish. This is a very early list and the columns have spread vertically and the detailed steps filled in significantly.

TO DO LIST SAMPLE

seq	Description	me	other	cost	Status	notes
23	Replace front suspension	.	X	1500	Scheduled	Call Bill
24	Remove old axle/springs	X	.	.	.	.
25	Grind rivets and remove spring hanger brackets	X	.	.	.	.
26	Clean up front frame rails Fill in extra holes	X	.	.	.	.
.	.	.	.	.	.	.
27	Buy Ididit column Ordered 4-5-7	X	.	300	Ordered	Shipping cost ???
27a	Buy borgeson u-joints U15N636CX736 U15N148CX736	X	.	365	Ordered	.
28	Install column and linkage	X	.	0	After susp.	.

A FISTFULL OF DOLLARS...

Once you have an idea of how you want to build, sit down and come up with a realistic estimate of the cost. Heed the word "realistic". (The column in your TO DO list for cost will help here.)
It's amazing how guessing and research can differ at the bottom line. If you sit down with a detailed list of parts, pieces and work to be done your estimate will be considerably more accurate. You can ask friends, use the internet and vendor catalogs for resources, or talk to others who have built custom cars and trucks. Don't ... repeat ... DON'T let the size of the total project scare you. Think of it as a lot of smaller less expensive projects. It will save your sanity, especially if you've never tried this type project before. And, one more thing about cost... never NEVER try to calculate your hours into the equation.... Even at three cents an hour...it will drive the price through the roof.
Unless you are fabulously wealthy and can afford to have your truck 'built' for you... you're going to have to have some basic mechanical skills and will probably develop some fabricating skills... which will also probably be more complicated than tightening bolts (righty tighty..leftly loosey). And you will need more than a pair of pliers and a couple of screwdrivers. As you develop your list... try to think about tools, machines, consumables and such that you will need to buy, rent, steal, borrow... and add that cost into your table.. although it's not actually part of the truck... it's money that will have to be spent to get the truck finished. AND, be realistic in your tool acquisitions... it's cheaper to get your truck painted by a pro than to buy a high dollar paint gun, compressor and build a paint booth, especially if you don't see yourself in the paint business down the road.

Whether you're frugal or have money to burn... this project will consume several thousand dollars of your bankroll. You can 'cheap' it and do most of the work yourself or hire it out to others... it's gonna cost money... the more realistic you are with your estimate and budget, the more calm and serenity there will be around you...the more agreeable your mate will be with your project... and the kids will probably get something for Christmas if you plan well.

Agreement to commitment.

There is no way to calculate how much your mate's support will mean to getting it finished. If you're working against her/him or at odds about it , even if/when you finish it it will be a sore spot and you'll never really get the enjoyment you'll deserve from it. The commitment of time and money is something that must be agreeable to everyone it affects in time and money. It's hard enough when EVERYONE wants it. I'd suggest that everyone affected (at least those affected by the finances) be in agreement before it starts.... It will make the path much easier to trod.

INITIAL NECESSARY STEPS AND PURCHASES

You have your plan... hopefully on paper but at least a smoky picture in your head. There are three things you need before you ever turn a wrench. A digital camera... a supply of small, medium and large zip lock bags and a bunch of Sharpie PERMANENT markers.

Take initial pictures of everything... especially before you take it apart... from different angles... wide shots and close ups. Don't get so close with the picture that all you see is a bolt head... you won't remember where on the truck it is in a month. Take a wide shot of an area then follow with several closer shots...this will help when you try to put it back together three years later. As you disassemble things put the parts in the bags and label them... torque converter bolts and caliper bolts looks alike but they ain't the same.

Pictures, sketches and drawings of wiring and assemblies will save you time later on.

I wrote an article a few years back when I thought I knew something...

http://jniolon.clubfte.com/Trialsofafirsttimebuilder.html

it might give you a little insight into your new found hobby. ... there is NOTHING that the group on FTZ and money can't overcome...oh, and time... you're gonna need some time too... the time (and cost) calculation formula is in the article above...
some other reading material... at the top of the forums here read any sticky threads.

One of your best and hopefully dearest resources is your membership in the elite group on FTZ. The FTZ and in particular the 48-60 forum is a family friendly type forum.. These guys will go far and above what you've experienced other places to help you with a problem, offer encouragement when you're disappointed with your progress... laugh WITH you at your silly mistakes ('cause they remember themselves doing the same thing or worse! And generally treat you like family...although there are a couple of cousins here that you have to watch out for. I've never seen anyone get flamed and while discussions can get heated at times... everyone walks away friends. Join in the discussions and offer what you know... that's what we do best. Take lots of progress pictures, start a gallery and share your joy. It keeps us all motivated.

The main thing you have to keep upper most in your mind.... Have fun. This isn't a race or a job. It's for enjoyment.. for you and for your family and friends. As soon as it turns into a job or a chore... all the fun drains out of it... Write it on the shop wall if you have to... but don't forget it.