An update: I did some tweaking with the automatic choke,..... Holy Crap there is the horsepower I've been missing!! Where exactly should the choke be set? It seems to actually run better with the power to the choke disconnected.

 

2 words of advise on these carbs.......................manual choke.

 

Much easier and effective to not mess with the old unreliable choke system and just go manual.
You will learn quickly just how little you actually NEED a choke.

 

Ok now, a whole new problem.....

After talking with CFIS (carbs and fuel injection systems) and learning that the TPS on the carb wasn't working nor the feedback unit, I had the carb cleaned via sound waves and reset back to factory specs. Except for leaking gaskets it is running great!!

Due to constantly leaking gaskets I've replaced gaskets from the heads up. Valve cover, intake manifold, head. Now everything is back together....... AAAAND........ It won't start.!! Has fuel, has spark, timing is set....... Won't effing start!

 

Did you pull the distributer?
could be 180* out.
check #1 plug for top dead center, and start from there.

 

Yes. Start with that.

 

I apologize for not being more clear. I've already put the engine at #1 cylinder 10 degrees before top dead center, distributor pointing at #1. I pulled the front two plugs from each side to check spark by grounding against the frame. Good spark (white color with a little blue). I looked into the carb and pressed the accel by hand, good fuel and fuel bowl is full. I have all the ingredients for a running engine, but it's not running.

Yesterday I was reading about a vacuum operated switch that controls timing retard and advance, but my truck doesn't seem to have that switch.

I'm at my wits end here. I bought this truck for $600 three months ago with the expectation of maybe two days work to tune up and then camping, the range, hunting, etc. now I have put well over $3k into it and it still won't run right.

 

Double check your firing order..... Just a thought , seen it before.

 

13726548

 

Been here a dozen times...........you are 180* out on the exhaust instead of intake, you really need to take off the valve cover to see the intake valve opening to confirm it.

 

I thought the same thing so I rotated the engine once and reset the distributor to #1..... Same result. I'm stumped. EEC maybe??

 

Pull #1 plug,put your thumb on the hole, and bump it over by hand.
When it blows your thumb off the hole you are at TDC
Look at the distributer. I bet it's NOT at #1

 

Oldjunkfords was right. I was 180* off. Teaches me to not be so sure of myself all the time. Well now I can actually tell that's it's trying to run. It's hesitating. Now on the valve cover it says 10*. I assume that means BTDC. However, I read that it is supposed to be 14* BTDC. Which is correct? Also, if I were close enough in the timing wouldn't it actually start but run rough?? Who was the jerk who designed the placement of the timing mark on these old tricks? I have to get under the harmonic balancer and use a mirror in conjunction with the timing light to see the mark.