Take it up a couple degrees.... You mean closer to TDC, or up in degrees BEFORE TDC?

 

Wow, that took forever, but I finally got it dialed in close enough to start and run!! Now to re-fix all the emissions lines that I broke in the process of replacing all the gaskets from the block up and then do a little tweaking on the timing.

The 59 series battery that belongs in it doesn't seem to have the cranking power to start it anymore. Have you gentlemen found the need to upgrade to a heavier/more CCA battery on your older trucks?

 

Wow, that took forever, but I finally got it dialed in close enough to start and run!! Now to re-fix all the emissions lines that I broke in the process of replacing all the gaskets from the block up and then do a little tweaking on the timing. Damn California Emissions vehicles!!

The 59 series battery that belongs in it doesn't seem to have the cranking power to start it anymore. Have you gentlemen found the need to upgrade to a heavier/more CCA battery on your older trucks?

 

So it starts and runs but since I attached all vacuum lines it runs like crap. At low rpm's it's very rough I til it dies. Before vacuum lines it ran much better.

 

Any ideas as to which one????

 

Spray starting fluid around all the vacuum hoses until the motor starts picking up RPMs..............there will be your vacuum leak,

 

Another question: what would cause exhaust smoke to momentarily come out of the oil filler cap/breather when cranking it over?

Also, the starter acts like its pushing against the compression worse than it previously was.

 

Check your plug wires for proper placement to cylinder, another possibility is you are 1 tooth off on the distributor too advanced.

 

when the starter is "grunting"
especially when it is warmed up. you are WAY too far advanced in your timing

go back to the basics.
Pull #1 plug and find TDC
mark the damper
set theset the distributer to #1 to match the damper, #1 plug, and the rocker arms
start the trruck, and set the timing with a timing light

STOP farting around guessing what * you are "setting" the distributer too, just put it to #1 to begin with, then "move it" when you have a light on it

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. It now starts first try every time, even if it has sat for a few days.

I am, however, having a VERY difficult time getting it to pass Arizona Emissions. Keep in mind that it's a California Emissions truck. I've taken it through emissions testing 5 times and ea h time it has failed worse than the time before. I finally gave up and took it to a shop called Dynamic Emissions here in Tucson (their Prince Rd location only). The owner checked everything like I did (all these items are working properly: plugs, wires, carb, Emmissions, compression, EGR, etc). He came to the conclusion after a smoke test that the intake manifold is leaking from the top and sides. He checked the torque on all the bolts... Good. I searched and found only a single matching intake manifold in Arizona (with California emissions) and I ordered it.

To be continued...

 

Just remembered something...

What would cause my transmission to slip horrible when it's cold, but run great once it warms up? The fluid isn't low, it's actually a little overfilled, and the fluid is nice and red.

 

Time for a band adjustment...............but this may be just the tip of the iceberg.

 

Another update:

One of the issues is that it's leaking oil. I can actually see it dripping out of the backend of the sump while it's running. I figured the oil pan gasket was leaking so I began the process of replacing the gasket.
First, most of the bolts were only finger tight, some actually unbolted.
Second: I drained the pan only to find WATER in the pan!! A couple of months ago I replaced the passenger side head gasket but not the driver side. Upon inspection, the passenger side head gasket was in OK shape so I figured the other side would be as well. Not so.
Third: I was already in the middle of replacing the intake manifold and all gaskets and had painted and reassembled the manifold. Picture is attached. But now that I'm ready to install it I have to wait while I put on the new oil pan gasket, then oil pump and strainer and pickup tube.
So: it seems like one thing after another, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

Question: how many inches do I need to jack up th engine in order to pull the pan off? I've had to take the pickup tube off as well as the oil pump itself, but it's still not clearing.

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Perty darn high. Pull the fan and shroud first.