If you had nothing but water in your oil pan, and you were driving it......................your motor is toast.

 

The pan had both water and oil in it, which also explains why it was dripping oil so bad while running. The water raised the oil level high enough to overflow the back of the pan, and with the pan bolts being so loose, it leaked. I'm praying that the motor isn't shot, but I do have access to another mid 80's 351w.

 

Running a engine with coolant/water in the oil will destroy the bearings in short order...............might be wise to pick-up that spare 351.

 

Very good point FTZ HAIC. I will definitely do that.

Here is the situation: somehow water got into the oil pan. Can a warped head allow this? I pulled the driver side head assuming the gasket was blown, but it's not. The head does however have a .006 in warpage. Is this sufficient to allow the symptoms? Will having the head resurfaced/shaved eliminate the issue?

 

I would pull that motor, and put it on a stand.
Sealing oil leaks under the truck are hard to do, if not impossible

You also now, need to roll in a set of bearings, and put in a new oil pump.
I would also bet the rear main seal to be part of the leak as well

Having the head milled is part of the cure, it also needs to be magnafluxed to check for cracks. Not doing that on heads that have overheated is just a waste of time and money

 

Have you inspected the head for cracks?
.006 is cause for concern, but may fall in tolerance when head is properly torqued to values and by bolt sequence.
But...............It remains the engine was run with significant quantities of water in the oil, damage to bearings is a ugly reality.

 

#ad

Here are pictures of the head gaskets only questionable areas as well as the heads mating surface.

 

#ad

 

Like Charlie said and we have been trying to tell you, even if you get the heads shaved, magnafluxed and new head-gaskets, it's just part of the problem now.
The motor has a 95% chance of being toast now having been run with coolant in the oil.

You need to replace the motor or go for a complete overhaul.

 

I understand what you are saying and I'm heeding your advice. I am getting the other 351w and doing a slow rebuild on that with all the bells and whistles. I'm also getting every last mile out of the first one, and since I'm doing things payday to payday on it, I can't drop a big chunk of change into it at once.

I just put the new head gasket on it after having a machine shop give me the go ahead with the head. I also pulled the oil filter off and cut it open. It was so old and deteriorated that it was falling apart in my hands. The folds in the gasket material were split. Unless this was caused by metal debris, the next oil change should be very telling. I'm also going to prime the oil pump.

 

If just a bandaid, throw a quart of Lucas oil treatment in with the new oil. Helps in a pinch.
Good product. I use it in many I own and some I work on.

 

I've rolled in new bearings, and put a high pressure, high volume pump on a few motors like that, and got them to last for a bit
Cam bearings will still be a issue, but will last long enough while you build the other motor, if you use the Lucas like John said to do

 

After reading this entire post, or whatever it's called, I either missed it, or it wasn't mentioned. The fuel filter. I've seen them in the carb where the fuel line attaches, in line between the fuel pump and carb, On the bottom of the fuel pump (cartridge type), and just ahead (engine side) of the electric fuel pump on fuel injected. Usually on the inside of the frame rail under the drivers door. I have also experienced problems with the fuel tank selector switch.... put fuel in the other tank and see what happens. On the ends of the pickup tubes, (sending units) are a "sock". This can get plugged up with crap (free with the lousy overpriced fuel we buy these days) and will cut out under higher load demand. If you don't have in tank fuel pumps, you can remove the fuel caps and blow compressed air into the pickup tube. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE FUEL CAPS!!!!! If this works, you will get to remove and clean the tanks. If your fuel caps are the venting type, they could be plugged. I suspect they are NOT the vented type because you stated it was a California emission equipped vehicle. Now for the transmission slipping. For less than $30 you can change the transmission filter and pan gasket. This might help. It seems to me your about due for some kind of good luck thing to happen, as your running out of bad luck things to repair! I respect your "I WILL WIN" approach. You will win and I believe your at the best place on the web to get the answers to all of your questions. Keep us posted so we can learn. Sick um, tiger!