Thanks for the confidence!

I actually just rebuilt the transmission (C6) myself and believe it or not first gear still slips until it's warmed up. When I realized this I burst end out laughing! Of all the things I could've done wrong, it works great with the exceptions of the parking pawl floats a little and first gear slips until warm.

Now a new question...

The engine that I'm building (for later installation) is NOT going to have California Emissions!! With that said, I have a Holly E4TE ARA 4D30 carburetor 4bbl made for Motorcraft, ign module, intake manifold, vacuum distributor, fuel pump. I was told that to convert my truck to Federal Emissions from California Emissions I would need to change these components as well as the brain. My best friend (John, an Electrical Engineer) mentioned that Ford probably manufactured all their vehicle brains with all possible needed programs and that there would be a series of switches to turn on/off that particular circuit in the brain. Is this so? Also, I have researched alldatadiy to find that my truck has a Throttle Kicker Module as well as a ECU. The throttle kicker module would monitor and control the feedback carb and its throttle. When I put on the new carb would I not worry about the throttle kicker module or would I need to unplug it??

I'm also considering putting a ram air intake with dual linked 4 bbl carbs (just because!!) . Anyone have experience doing this?? Pros and cons?? I obviously don't care about the price of gas, but I'm wondering what kind of HP to expect as well as any cooling issues.

 

Why not re-wire around the computer, and do a stand alone distributor like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-351W-W...ash=item2ca3b3857b:g:5zsAAOSwl9BWL4S0&vxp=mtr

 

Great find dustybumpers and made in USA!
lazbiker: If your truck has all of the emission equpt. to smog it in the state of California, you will breeze through a federal inspection, If everything is working properly. I love the idea of 2-4bbls, but would wait until I pass the fed emission test, before the fun begins. And you can probably sell that 4bbl carb to some poor soul that can't get his vehicle smogged in Cal. because he has the wrong carb on his vehicle. List it on Ebay as "California emission compliant". Did you get the 2k stumble/backfire problem fixed? Another thing I thought about is the gaskets on top and especially the bottom of the EGR right under the carb. An absolutely perfect place for a vacuum leak. As stated earlier starting fluid, or in my case, Barrymens B12 chemtool, or any good carb cleaner, sprayed around suspect areas will change the RPMs and give you a good idea of where it's leaking. You non California people that have to pass 1 test and then do what ever you want, reminds me of when I was a teenager and had "friends" at the smog shops. They had no problems with duel quad tunnel rams with headers and dual point Accel distributors. You learned real quick that you didn't stop there for a smog unless there was a stock vehicle next to the smog bay so they could "tail pipe" the other vehicle. All my "friends" are either out of the business, or in jail. You don't even hint of asking a smog shop to overlook something now, as you may get a visit from a state inspector from the California Air Resources Board. (Government Goober.) Do it man, cut a hole in the hood, and "sport" those twin Holleys atop the high rise, you know, proving fuel is still cheap. Just remember the heads that all turn to look, will be older people, not teenagers. They don't know what carbs are! Just poken fun, kids. 0ld, and I do mean old 86.

 

There were 2 major causes of the backfires.

First: When I took the carb to CFIS (Carburetors and Fuel Injection Systems) here in Tucson, I found out that all the electronic components of the carburetor (TPS, Feedback Unit, Electric Choke) were unserviceable. Realistically they were manufactured to have a 15 year lifespan and they were already 32 years old. They cleaned, rebuilt, and put it to factory settings. It cost me $400.

Second: I found vacuum leak after vacuum leak after vacuum leak.

Your comment about waiting until it's passed Arizona smog is good advise, however I'm going to register it in Alpine, AZ. My wife and I are building a cabin there and they are smog exempt.

 

I have successfully registered the truck in Nutrioso which is exempt from emissions testing. I've got two Holley 650cfm 4 barrels. I've had some difficulty finding a high rise tunnel ram for the 351 though. Isn't a 351w actually a 302 block with different heads? If so, couldn't I use a high tunnel ram for a 302?? There seems to be plenty of them out there.

 

Ummmm. are you trying to say you have a boss 302?

 

No, it's not a BOSS.

 

are you using 351 Cleveland heads?

 

nver mind. I didn't understand the question
No, the 351 w is NOT the same as the 302, other than the bell bolt pattern and the heads
Block is wider, and it had an external balanced crank
It also has a different stroke

But yet, it is still a small block......

 

I've ordered four junk Holley Carburetors off of EBay with the intent of making one or two good ones out of them. The primary jets sizes that are in them are 21.9, 30.9 and 61.2. I'm at about 3000 ft above sea level but I don't know what was stock at sea level in the Holleys. I'm almost ready to reassemble the best of the parts with carb kits and new diaphragms.

 

Here's a major update: after reinstalling the transmission, two weeks later the rear main started puking oil. This REALLY ticked me off. I pulled the entire drivetrain as one unit (engine, transmission, and transfercase all together). I found an old stand made for a 1940's concrete mixer and it's perfect as a stand for the entire drivetrain. With the drivetrain on the stand I attached the hoist to the engine, separated it from the transmission/transfercase, and mounted it to the engine stand for total diss assembly. I found the the cylinders are already .0400 over and the crank is already .0100 over. This engine has been rebuild at least twice before. The block is junk. I'm weighing my options. Buy another old truck, rebuild (to performance standards) my engine (have a 1971 351w block available to me), or put it back together as is (with new seals) and drive it until it falls apart. I found an 89 f-250/351w for $900. I found a 79/460 (engine only) for $500. And the performance build on my existing engine (with 1971 block) will cost about $2100, with me doing all assembly myself.

Opinions please.....