Timing chain seems fine.
Timing is spot on at 800 with advance disconnected and plugged.
Line from the plate is hooked to a new pcv valve and plate is not damaged.

I replaced the ignition coil because it was testing just out of spec. I was then able to drive it around my field several times. Called it good for the day. This morning it would start just fine but not stay running. So I guess the issue is electrical.
Like I stated I know very little about the history. So I'm not very sure on the ignition.
I know it is a powerfire I distributor and their website doesn't go much further than plugging the harness in.
Battery is good, alternator and voltage regulator are new. the solenoid is good. All wiring seems fine and connected.

So where abouts would this resistance wire run from so I can check that?
Also I have a 3 pronged relay (I'm guessing) beside the solenoid. I see it on the wiring diagram but it doesn't say what it is for???
I have seen a bunch on ignition control module and heat issues aswell. If it has finally gone could that allow it to turn over but not stay running or would it just not start?

 

The resistance wire comes from the ignition switch to feed the coil, reduced voltage. It would be, originally, in a small harness that ran along the driver side valve cover WITH the coolant temp gauge wire and the oil pressure gauge/idiot light wire. These last two, I'm assuming are there. ALSO on the starter solenoid, the small terminals are marked S and I. The S terminal engages the solenoid. The I terminal (I=Ignition) Joins the resistance wire, in the harness, AFTER the resistance portion of the wire to give Full Battery Voltage to the coil while cranking the engine only. When you let go of start position at the key, the resistance wire solely feeds and keeps the engine running.

Testing. Thinking you have a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter). Turn Meter on to 20V, DC. Hook the Neg lead to a good clean ground on the engine. Thinking you have a conventional looking coil, hook the Positive lead from meter to the Batt or + side of the coil. Preferably the engine is warmed up, start it, Read and Note the voltage feeding the coil. Now, engine still running, hook the meter leads to the battery and check the voltage. Voltage at the coil and battery will be different it the resistance wire is feeding the coil. IF they are the same, maybe a couple hundredths different (lower at the coil) you can assume the ignition is being fed full battery voltage.

The 3 prong relay between battery and starter solenoid is the "Horn Relay"

Your comment on control module/heat issues, start stop. Yes/No/Maybe?? No knowledge of the Powerfire 1/I distributor or what the operating voltage needs to be. If your voltage feeding the system is reduced and borderline of requirement, guess it could let the engine shut off. Did the online website give you a wiring schematic or trouble shooting? Cap

 

Have you ever been able to drive this truck since you’ve had it?

 

Have you been able to drive this truck at all since you’ve had it?