Hard to start 79 F350

Discussion in '1973 - 1979 Ford F100, F150, F250-F350 Truck Forum' started by allisca, Jun 17, 2017.

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  1. allisca

    I have checked the float level and it is fine and the advance is working fine, put a new battery in it to see if that is the problem and that did not change anything. My next question is could it be the starter dragging and I could buy another or take one off of one of my other trucks ?
     
  2. Muel Article Contributor Oregon Chapter

    As this has gone on for a while just to clarify the scenario @ this point in time...
    1. Cold engine starts and runs ok?
    2. Warm engine starts and runs ok?
    3. Hot engine starts and runs ok?
    4. Hot and left to sit for a period of time more then 1/2 hour engine starts slowly has no power and feels like it is flooded?

    Timing marks are correct and the timing has been set to factory specs.
    Float level has been verified.

    Is the engine wearing the factory air cleaner?
    What was the carb?
     
    allisca likes this.
  3. Muel Article Contributor Oregon Chapter

    As this has gone on for a while just to clarify the scenario @ this point in time...
    1. Cold engine starts and runs ok?
    2. Warm engine starts and runs ok?
    3. Hot engine starts and runs ok?
    4. Hot and left to sit for a period of time more then 1/2 hour engine starts slowly has no power and feels like it is flooded?

    Timing marks are correct and the timing has been set to factory specs.
    Float level has been verified.

    Is the engine wearing the factory air cleaner?
    What was the carb?
     
  4. allisca

    OK for this has gone on a long time and you guys have been very patient with me. The engine when cold starts and runs fine, when I stop and start several times it starts fine, when I drive it for say 2 - 3 miles and stop, it will start right away then after several times it acts like the starter is dragging but today I installed a new battery and changed the starter from my 77 and it seems to be a little better. If I keep trying to start it by bumping the key it will eventually start. It has a factory air cleaner and a brand new holley 2 bbl electric choke. I only half to run the engine for 10 - 15 minutes to act up and yes the float level is good. I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. The engine has 115,000 miles and I put a timing chain and gears in it at around 60,000 miles
     
  5. allisca

    By the way I double checked the spacer block and I have two around 5/8 thick
     
  6. 1970something TOTM Winner Founding Member

    if you changed the starter and it seems better, it could simply be a tired starter. advice would be to run it a few days and see if the changed starter helps or gets rid of the problem.
     
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  7. allisca

    I will do that for I need to put my mind to rest on this subject or what I have left
     
  8. iicap

    Allisca, do answer Muel's questions. Next from my point, is after sitting 15- 20 minutes, or sooner after parking, remove air cleaner and with a flashlight look down into the carb to see if anything looks wet as if there is an internal leak or the gas may be percolating and causing it to flood itself. Do Not open the throttle to look past the plates as this will spray gas from the accelerating pump and make all wet.


    SORRY ALL, I did not see a page 8 had started. and ask what had been answered
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2017
    allisca likes this.
  9. iicap

    Sorry All, did not see a page 8 was started and I ask what had been answered
     
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  10. 1970something TOTM Winner Founding Member

    just don't be like Charlie (crustybumpers) and go in the hospital to have what little brains you have left removed.

    we don't need three drooling brain dead idjiots here.
     
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  11. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    HEY
    What did he say?
     
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  12. 1970something TOTM Winner Founding Member

    i said you are my bestest friend in the whole wide world.







































    and then i woke up.
     
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  13. Muel Article Contributor Oregon Chapter

    On the Holly Carb there is a number stamped into the front surface of the Choke Air Horn; it is call the "List Number" It will be on the drivers side. Please get that number.

    Next while cracking the seal on the float sight plug is not a bad way to check the float level it will often give a reading that is not accurate. With your understandable aversion to fire, get a set of clear sight plugs, yes you only need one but they come packaged for the 4-bbl and you get two: http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/65226/10002/-1 . That will eliminate the fire risk and allow you to set the float but more importantly after a hot soak where it is acting like it is flooded, will allow you to see if the float level has dropped with the engine off. Note that with the politically correct 'oxygenated' fuels (mandated people that know Jacksheite about engines or emissions) it is often better to have the float set a 32nd to a full 1/16"-high; but not yet

    Next is to verify that the air-cleaner hot air intake diverter; that flappy thingy in the air-cleaner inlet is in fact opening when it should. With the engine running: Cold = Closed ~VS~ Operating temp = Open. I've seen this system cause all kinds of mischief!

    I suspect that the Carb is "percolating" when hot soaked. Basically the fuel is boiling into the engine when the fuel heats up, when the engine is turned off, while hot. What happens is with the engine running fresh cool fuel is being pumped into the Carb through the needle and seat, it isn't really in the Carb long enough to get hot. When the engine is turned off the fresh cool fuel supply stops and the Carb and the fuel both get hot. As the fuel literally boils, it has no place for the vapors to expand to other then to push out into the engine. This is why the suggestion has been made to look... get the engine up to operating temperature then shut it down and remove the top of the air-cleaner and actually look about every 5-min and see if you can see a mist or fuel dripping off the booster venturi down on to the throttle plates.

    Even a little bit of percolation combined with timing issues or a weak starter, bad wiring or a corroded connection will generate a Hot No Start condition.

    muel
     
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  14. iicap

    Thank You Muel, Super explanation!
     
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  15. allisca

    Well I took it for a ride but before I left I advanced the dizzy very little and boy did it start easy and plenty of power. When I got back I got the step ladder out and removed the air cleaner and looked into carb and it was dry. Let it sit for 20 minutes and I think the starter is dragging but if I bump the starter several it will take off and run and does not seem to be loaded up with fuel. The starter I am using is off of my 77 High Boy and the one that was on the 79 I purchased 2 years ago rebuilt but does not have much time on it. Can I buy a new starter instead of rebuild ?
     
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