Don't worry about the wrong solenoid, there are only two types. There could be a number of small wires with eye hole connectors, they all go to the side nearest the battery, only one big wire comes off the far post.
The solenoid mostly controls the starter, but its + post is used as a junction point for some other systems.

 

tamgc, first, as well as not being able to see what you have, we don't know what your capabilities are. So take no offense from my questions.
Do you have a test light?? Do You have a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter)??

Test light
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DVOM
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Tomorrow I'll post starter solenoid with wires attached and description, Cap

 

Oldiesask's reply in post #16 is dead on excellent description of wires to starter solenoid.

This solenoid is mounted on my 66 F-250. Your wires will/may not look exactly like mine but you will know what wires go on which stud. Don't be concerned with cable/wire colors.
The stud on the left has the positive battery cable, red and 2 eyelet wires. Top one feeds the power to the cab, the bottom one feed to the horn relay, voltage regulator, alternator stuff under the hood. The right hand stud with single cable goes to the Starter Motor, ONLY.
The 2 push on wires go to the S and I studs. I'll explain them in the next picture for your knowledge.

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Sorry about double posting pics, not good at this. Any advice on posting pics will be gladly accepted as I experiment. I am copying from my computer photo's and pasting here.

The S terminal wire goes to your ignition switch. When you turn the key to the start position this wire energizes the solenoid to crank/start the engine.
The I terminal wire is to send full battery voltage to the ignition coil when the engine is cranking to start. The wire from the ignition switch to the coil is a resistor wire. It reduces voltage to the coil when the engine is running to help give the ignition points a long life without premature pitting and burning. The I terminal wire joins the resistor wire in the harness below the resistance area to send the full battery voltage.

If your solenoid has the I terminal, the truck may have had points and condenser ignition on it's original engine from the factory and may not being used now Because you stated you have Electronic Ignition now.

A final note/explanation on this picture. The Red wire with the Blue terminal is custom to MY truck, as I converted it to Ford Dura Spark II Electronic Ignition. I am feeding the coil thru my original resistance wire and still use the I terminal to give full battery voltage to the coil when cranking the engine. I have NEVER investigated if the Dura Spark system, with engine running, runs on full battery voltage. The truck runs excellent and the performance improvement, amazing. It has a stock engine. Cap

Next we'll talk strictly about your horn problem. Cap

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Agreed, the S and I stand for start and ignition, some later ones only have start, so that's why I said only two types. There are actually more, but they all work the same. A non Ford unit may not have the letters, but S is always next to the hot, or closest to the battery. At any rate, if the OPs truck starts and runs, the solenoid is fine, the horn only feeds off this circuit.

 

Thank's Oldieask! No response from OP but I'll finish up on the horn.
3 wires on the horn relay, 2 heavy ones (yellow in most cases) 1 to the post with battery cable on starter solenoid, the other to the horn. The 3rd and lighter wire being medium to dark blue with a yellow tracer, goes thru the harness into the cab and it ends at the signal light switch 2 piece connector at the steer column just under the dash. With a test light, hooked to a good ground, touching the test light probe to the blue/yellow wires pin or terminal, It Should Light, and if it does, the circuit to that point is good, no problem. Now, with all the wires in the 2 halves of the connector, Color Matched to each other, and plugged together, you now want to take your test light and touch the spring loaded copper (looking) contactor. It Should Light. At this point you can test to see if the horn will blow. A jumper/test, wire with both end stripped bare, one end held to a good ground and the other end, touch the copper spring loader contactor. You will NOT get a shock.


See the Blue/Yellow wire, it attaches to the bottom of the hole the spring loaded contactor (not shown) goes in.

Contactor, smaller than the second contactor that goes thru the steering wheel

A new switch installed with contactor sticking out.

Remember we talked about the copper strap in the wrag joint breaking? Installing a jumper wire to do the straps job. This pic shows it. You can see the bolt on the part that adjust up n down to take play out of the steering shaft bearings. Not seen, is the other end of the wire, on the bolt that locks the lower half of the wrag joint to the steering box.

OK, tomorrow we'll cover the steering wheel and horn button. I'd like to add. I have a 10 ft long piece of 14 ga wire with alligator clips on each end. I use it as an extension to my Test Light. With it, I can reach the NEG post of the battery and have a Definite Good Ground from about anywhere in the cab. If I open both alligator clips feed them to each other, they're locked good. And ALWAYS test, the test light, bulbs go bad. Cap

 

thanks for all your help, today finally got it working, long haul trucker son came in town, he used to repair electronics for the navy, he tracked it down, now on to why dont dash lights work despite having replace headlight switch

 

Glad you have horn straightened out. Would you post what the problem was that your Son fixed. Many have followed these postings and in future others may search it to fix their problem.

Start a new post to address your dash lights. Cap

 

turns out the long yellow wire that goes from fusible link to horn was essentially cut/broken as it was entering the taped wiring section, which the mechanic that replaced the engine had wrapped in new tape. i didnt notice it because it was partially obscured by the new tape. son surmised that when checking with meter i was applying pressure that completed the connection when testing but that disconnected once pressure was released. we just stripped wire and completed the connection. next question is that i am trying to find a 20 gauge fusible link to replace the one that is on that wire as son pointed out it has an exposed wire right at the fusible link and that the wire itself is is bad shape from some unknown issue. so far all that i have discovered is that despite the picture of a fusible link resembling the one on the truck they send me a 20 gauge wire. i have 30 dollars invested in a wire that does not meet my current situation. i am looking at
VANTRONIK Waterproof Inline Fuse Holder 3 Pack for Mini Fuse, 20 Gauge which can be used in auto applications, so far this seems to be my best option, thoughts

 

Glad you found it! Had a similar situation, same location, link wire holding on by 2 strands, enough to read on a meter and light a test light, but not carry a load.
Do you mean 20 AMP fuse-able link, not 20 gauge, gauge is wire size.. You can get a 20 amp blade fuse and holder (weather proof if you wish) instead of a link. Unless you want to use a link and tape it back into the harness. Cap

 

Sometimes, the Ford link has a flag on it with "20 ga fuse link", I don't know why they don't state amperage. Some are just a wire, with fuse link printed on the insulation. The wire you were sold, if it was sold as a fuse link, should work, it just looks different. Crimp, or solder, a splice on the wire end and an eye on the other, seal it with a shrink tube. Make sure to cut all the old fuse off, cut past the bulge/splice.
Or go to a pick a part yard and cut one off something, car or truck, they're all the same.

 

yes, i mean 20 gauge, what i read said 20 gauge fuse link fuse is 2 gauges smaller than the wire it is inserted into, so if i go with vantronik route i need to determine what fuse amperage needs to go into it