I did do that after pulling the mountain up 77 into Virginia. You know, you do not buy beer, you rent it. LOL

 

You've gotten me thinking. If getting rid of heat is the goal with ignition modules, I'm thinking to use silicon bronze screws/bolts, the biggest that will fit, then back them with flat copper strips on the other side of the plastic fender liner. Maybe even use some thermal conductive heat sink grease.

 

When I bought my new one, I went one step further. I got a 1 inch aluminum block and cut it to the size of the module. I then finned the block down to 1/16 of cutting through. I scrubbed the top of the module with a flat emory block, applied a thin layer of thermal paste and then epoxied the edges of the aluminum block to the module. I ducted some airflow from the fender over the top of it. No more failures after that. I wish that I had taken pics of it but that was before the other site. A few mechanics did see it at the local dealership that raced and copied it for their cars.

 

Sounds like a seriously Good Thing for Ford modules. Of course that nice machine work would make it expensive as a commercial proposition, but I like it.

Hey, I think I got a clue tonight: Was using the F250, running on back tank. My rear sending unit starts the gauge downward as soon as I begin using a full tank, hits Empty well before the tank really is. I was running "on empty," knowing it would eventually run out but the front tank was full. When the engine finally cut out and I started losing speed, I flipped the selector switch up to Front. I kept slowing down, no power. I glanced at the fuel gauge, which should have been moving from Empty toward Full. It was still on Empty. I flicked the selector switch back and forth a couple of times. The gauge started rising and the engine suddenly had power again.

I don't recall how that circuit is set up; should probably read the manual. I think the selector switch in the cab switches the gauge and the selector valve underneath, then contacts on the selector valve pick up the appropriate pump. Now I'm wondering about an intermittent contact in the selector switch. But I'm not sure that explains the intermittent shutdowns when on the rear tank. It seemed to me as if tonight was a failure to switch to the front tank. Maybe I have two issues.

By the way, when I stopped for gas I could not crowd more tan 15 gallons into the rear tank. ? ? ? I thought those were 19 gallon tanks.

 

So now 6 months later, what have you found? Your last post indicated, to me, the selector switch was intermittently operating while you were flicking it, and then the truck started working again. You also said the truck wasn't used much, so I'm thinking the contacts in the switch have gotten corroded or oxidized and are barely making contact. By flicking the SS may have temporarily "shined up" the contacts to work again. This could also be the case in the fuel pump relay, if your truck has one. These little cube relays are a lot cheaper than a SS. Old 86

 

Actually, I use it so seldom, and it has not been acting up... Have not done anything else to it. Though I have gotten annoyed with the damp interior here in rainy westernWashington and having some leakage from left side of windshield gasket. So I am keeping a long life 60 watt bulb in the cab whole parked, sort of like the little Golden Rod heater in my gun safe.

 

If your ECM is in the fender housing, firewall harness on the left side, you had better get that leak fixed or you will short out the whole damn thing on the inside. It can cause a fire as there is direct hot wires to the fuse box.

 

I will take a closer look. It acts like I have some leakage from the top of the windshield gasket on the left side, so will drip a small puddle on the left floorboard after enough rain. Cheap fix is probably to get under the edge of the gasket with tip of caulking gun and apply some RTV silicone.

 

One of the work trucks leaked around the windshield. The glass guy came out and used a heat gun to soften the glue back up. No more leaks. Old 86

 

Hey that's worth a try. Don't want to overdo it and thermal stress the windshield, but I do have a heat gun.

 

[/QUOTE]It acts like I have some leakage from the top of the windshield gasket on the left side, so will drip a small puddle on the left floorboard after enough rain.

 

Now that is interesting. Thanks. It's definitely an outside truck, and we're surrounded by trees.

 

I wrote this one too, that goes with that one
https://www.fordtruckzone.com/threads/re-sealing-the-cowl-on-a-80-96-f-series.657653/

 

dustybumpers: I actually read https://www.fordtruckzone.com/threads/re-sealing-the-cowl-on-a-80-96-f-series.657653/
first, then went crusing all over FTZ, where I read about a leak, and then couldn't find this site again. Is there a way these 2 sites could be combined, or at the end of each address it could say"Also see............". It seems to me, if you are going to clean the drains, you hare already done most of the work to do the under cowl/ firewall seal check/repair job. (IMO) My computer skills are very poor and I am new to forums. Good information that may help Hamilton Felix. "Thanks" dustybumpers. Old 86

 

In the end of sealing the cowl, is the link for cleaning the drains. I will make sure the cleaning of the drains threads has a link to the cowl sealing. Thanks

There will be more articles this spring on these trucks, keep your eyes open.

Most of my trucks that fit in this era, are 89-96, so I usually will put the article there.
Once Ken transfers it to the article section, he links it back here, but it gets split up into sections.

Look at the articles section, watch there for how toos as well

You will find that section near the top, where the FTZ logo is
https://www.fordtruckzone.com/categories/articles.252/