I was going with the Ruby red used on newer trucks,
Until I found out a gallon kit was going to cost me $2500.

 

Finally got my hood,fenders, doors&tailgate back from body shop all painted and waiting for the cab and bed now. Hopefully 2 more weeks and it will all be home and assembly will begin

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WOW!! That is really some awesome paint work!!

 

Cab and bed are painted now, just a bit more work and clean up and hopefully bring it home Tuesday
Painter forgot I wanted the cream on the roof, so he has to do that. Time for me to get to work now

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Work is progressing on my 67 , engine, transmission, exhaust, core support and radiator have all be installed. Been going through wiring as I hook it up along with all the dash components
Hope to start it up this weekend, then put inner and outer fenders on, finish interior and install hood and doors in near future

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Really looking Great! Are we seeing Cadmium plated Bolts/Hardware?? Your choosing what wanted or hardware kit specific to 67 F(models)-100 ?? Also the Heat shield boots around the plugs and wire ends ?? Not seen them before?? Thanks for Sharing, always fun to follow along with the progress. Cap

 

Not a specific bolt kit just replacement hardware from Panhandle auto fasteners. Put the heat boots on to try and cut down on problems later
Went with the HEI distributor that was a bad choice for the 302, it’s so big I’m having clearance issues with the water outlets for the heater and temp gauges. Should have gone with something with a remote coil

 

Thanks on your replies. Just a comment from me on the HEI. I have one (Chinese Knock Off) on a 1968 F-350, 360 engine, everyday driver, while my 66 is in it's second preservation mode . It came with 3 sets of springs to customize the centrifugal advance. Here is the odd thing, when the weights are retracted, there is an amount of Free Travel or play, like the springs don't retard all the way. You can grab the rotor and twist in the advance direction and when the springs return to the no advance position and stops, you can move the rotor back more. I discovered this when using the timing light. Setting the timing at stock idle RPM, to the stock spec OK. Now revving the engine to see at what RPMs the advance starts and how many degrees of advance total, and at what RPM's max advance is achieved. Returning the engine to idle, the timing never goes back to where it was set. It stays advanced about 8 degrees more than the initial setting.

This is strictly Centrifugal Advance, the vacuum advance is disconnected and plugged. There is nothing binding or sticking in the advance. NOW shut the engine off. Restart the engine at idle, don't rev it and the timing is where it is initially set. Rev the engine to let the advance got thru it's range and back to idle and the timing is at 8 degrees more as I stated earlier. It's because of the the free play/movement of the weights. The heaviest springs don't make a difference. I don't know if OEM GM HEI's do this, never dealt with one.

If yours is one these Knockoffs, would be interesting to see if yours, or maybe other readers have come across this. Cap

 

Mine made by Proform not sure if it’s made over the pond or not. By good info to know I will definitely look for that when I get it fired off and tuned. Thanks