i really really hate autozoo.
they are about the worst of the worst when it comes to "rebuilt " parts. they send them to a mass rebuilder that only replaces what is bad, cleans and paints it, and calls it rebuilt. that ain't rebuilt, it is repaired. most of the time the part you turn in is in better overall shape than the one you get back.
and they charge almost as much as a new one too.

that is why i deal with a local rebuillder. they replace everything, and charge 1/2 the price auto parts stores do

 

If I were going to replace, I'd shop Rock Auto
I NEVER shop AutoZone
I usually rebuild electrical parts

 

Don't forget the Rock Auto discount code either...

IMHO the only thing 'Autozoo' is good for is expendables like wax, light bulbs, oil, antifreeze when they are on sale and the military discount.

 

even their light bulbs suck. the boss stopped and got a box of 1157's for the trucks.
4 were bad right out of the sealed box, and the other 6 did not last a month.
he went to napa and those bulbs have been in the truck 3 years now.

 

Local repro parts sellers: Blue Oval Truck Parts located in NE Anaheim, Truck and Car Shop located on Batavia Street in Orange.

Best auto parts store in SoCal for older vehicles: Engler Brothers Auto Parts on Pico Blvd in Santa Monica.

Bill's Auto Repair located in Orange, specializes in older (pre 1980's) FoMoCo vehicles. Is a member of SoCal Galaxies.

Starter whizzes: Flywheel ring gear has chipped teeth, starter drives lands on spot where teeth are chipped. Starter drive contains a coil spring, could be broken.

If the ring gear has chipped teeth, you don't have to replace the entire flywheel. You can buy the ring gear by itself, then an auto parts store machine shop can replace and resurface the flywheel if it needs it.

Rock Auto is located in WI .. Why buy there when the parts are available locally?

btw: When I was active in SoCal Galaxies and had Bill work on my car ('68 XL), I lived in Hacienda Heights. I currently live in Simi Valley, but I'm originally from Santa Monica, and...

I owned a 1965 F100 352 Styleside for 44 years ( 3/1965 - 11/2009).

 

NAPA is good for parts nobody anywhere else seems to have. The flip side of that coin is their prices, which are high.

I think A-Zone has a number of rebuilders on tap, one of the oldest being Al Cardone.

NEVER get a crate engine from an auto parts store, get what you got rebuilt. Otherwise you'll have an engine with helicoils in every third or fourth bolt hole...

 

Thanks for the tips. I wanna see if i can do the work myself. was reading on the web that i'll need to take off the exhaust pipes to put a new starter in. Do you have any resources that has some instructions on what to do? Or is it too big of a job for a newbie?

 

Thanks 1970something. i'll look into it.

 

Why do you want to take off the exhaust? Sometimes those pipes are best left alone until you decide to mod them with a set of headers...

There should be a way to get around them - rule number one in all mech work is to never take apart anything you don't have to! How tight does it look where the starter is at?


BY THE WAY, a bunch of times you said you are new to this, so I better tell you this to MAKE SURE you know:

NEVER GET UNDER ANYTHING YOU JACK UP WITHOUT JACK STANDS HOLDING IT SECURELY!!!

People die every year because they thought a jack would hold up a car or truck and they got underneath, always use safety stands!

The list of horror stories about not using safety stands to get under a car or truck goes back all the way to the beginning, and they are cheap to buy.


* as a matter of fact there is a house for sale cheap not far from here because the guys very pretty wife got crushed while changing oil in an SUV

 

Haha not that I want to. Not at all. I was just doing a little research found this thread on the internet from some other forum and the advice they were giving was just that. I haven’t taken a look yet was going to take a look in the morning to see what needs to be done. Would love any advice I’m a newb at mechanical work. Do mostly wood and metal and artsy stuff.

 

See if you can get some pic's of the space around it, or just try to get it out without messing with the exhaust. I can't believe all the repair shops since 1966 had to pull an exhaust to do that minor R&R job - that just doesn't seem right

I have some DAMN GOOD advice once you see the nuts and bolts - make a mix of 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid to put on the bolts/nuts ahead of time to loosen them

It's an even better stuck nut and bolt loosener than what they sell in stores. I doubt you'd need it for the starter bolts, but if you have to mess with the exhaust it would be priceless.

Be sure to take off the battery negative before undoing the wires on it.

 

Sounds good brother. Thanks for the advice. Will upload some pictures tomorrow when I get under it

 

If the exhaust is that much in the way it sounds like HOTROD time anyway...

 

Haha that is always an option

 

May I suggest a 351W bored and stroked to 408, for example...

(I'm a bad influence)