If I can't find a raised arm I'm looking for a bigger block. The one installed now is 3" for reference. I imagine it was part of the lift kit.

 

Hey,
Sorry for the post but after looking at the pictures again, looks like you already have that block. I need to get my old eyes to pay better attention. LOL..

I measured the block on mine and it raises the steering up 3".
I tried to take pictures but never got the angles right that actually shows the 1/2 to 3/4 inch space correctly.
.....Sorry for any confusion.

 

No problem, I appreciate your interest. I did check out the link and that is exactly what I have. I called to see if they make bigger blocks but they don't. He referred me to Ready Lift and they don't have anything either. On the plus side, you may have helped me determine the lift manufacturer because that block looks just like mine. If you get decent pics, I would like to see how yours sits, it might help me determine my lift size. Thanks for all the help!

 

PAPA Smurf,
I did get a couple of pics of mine but looks closer than it is. must be the angle.
Anyway, the PO of my truck had a 4" lift in mine with the 5 new leaf springs.
Just guessing but you probably have a 6" lift in yours with the extra 2 leafs.
Those extra leafs seem to be the difference between our trucks.
I am still going to keep looking as to why the steering arm is so close.
Also my steering arm seems to be tapered downward toward the spring more than I like.
Let me know if you come up with a solution..
BTW,, nice tires.

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Besides the two extra leaf springs mine has a tapered block under the front springs too....1 3/4" front side to 1 1/4" back side. The guy at the 4x4 shop said you should never put blocks under the front, don't know much about that myself. I noticed the 3" block under your steering arm (same as mine) and found that comes with a 4" lift kit. I called a bunch of lift kit places yesterday and no one makes a bigger block or carries different steering arms. Makes me wonder how people with bigger lifts are getting clearance. I think at this point I'm gonna pull out the block and go to a machine shop and see if they can fab a bigger one. The bolts are threaded on both ends so I should be able to pull them and get longer ones. Don't know what else to do. All I do know is, even though she's easy on the eyes, I didn't buy it to look at! My patience is shot....lol. I will keep you posted my friend.

 

Yea, Mine also has the pinion angle tapered plate under the springs.
Without that correct tapered plate, your pinion angle would be incorrect due to the shorter front shaft.
I will also keep looking around for the answer...

 

One of the steering geometry specs is " Inclination of the Kingpin" or "Caster", same thing. As you don't have Kingpins, you have upper and lower ball joints on the steering knuckle. If you could look at the ball joints from the clock position, left side of truck only, top joint 12:00, lower joint 6:00, directly over each other, you would have Zero Caster. If the top was tilted toward 1:00 and bottom would be toward 7:00 you would have Positive Caster. On an alignment machine it would be measured in Degrees. When truck was new/stock Ford set the Caster spec by where they welded the spring saddles on the axle tube and no wedges needed. Yes as commented, the wedge blocks might be there for driveshaft angle. If the blocks should be in there fat side to the rear, it would tip the axle back and change the relationship of the steering arm eye to the Ubolt. THIS IS JUST SOMETHING FOR YOU TO LOOK AT AND CONSIDER, they may be in there properly now. Caster set properly helps the wheels to return to straight ahead after turning any amount as you go down the road. Cap

 

There is no doubt that the spacer blocks makes the Ubolt and arm eye closer together. As per Blue Ovals picture he has clearance, but if he put a spacer block, his eye and Ubolt would hit. You ask what do guys do with larger/taller lifts. They probably do their own custom modifications

 

i just noticed the blocks under the springs after being mentioned in above post.
here that truck would be red stickered and impounded.
any spring block on a front axle is a big no no here.
remove the blocks from under the springs, and your problem will magically disappear.

 

So I'm gathering it's a safety issue having blocks in the front. If I take them out it will change the driveshaft angle. Would that create another issue? I would probably lower the back end also to keep it level.

No doubt, I lost the battle trying to find a raised arm, nobody makes them for my model. Only options I see are something custom or crossover. So much for the easy route....lol.

 

Good catch there iiCAP and 70Something on the blocks.
I also missed the blocks under the front springs.

One option would be to check out lowering your truck from 6 inch to a 4 inch lift by removing the front blocks and a spring if needed. Install 4 inch blocks in the rear to level it up and definitely a new set of U bolts.
If it was me,, I would remove the blocks for sure.
Again just my .02 worth...

 

As for lowering the truck back to, say , 4 inch, instead of what you have, you need to find if the driveshafts have been lengthened. As you lower you will cause the slip joint of the driveshaft to slip in farther and possibly bottom in the female part of the slip as you drive and maybe hit a bump in the road. I guess I'm saying the joint resting should be middle of its possible travel in and out. All just sitting parked as if ready to drive it, I would put a hacksaw mark on the male part where it meets the female, then with driveshaft disconnected, I'd move the joint all way in, then all way out, to see if mark is in middle of travel.

 

In the case of needing a correct height adjustment ( I HAD NO IDEA THAT BLOCKS WERE ILLEGAL ) , you could use short pieces of spring leafs, say 1/2 inch longer each way than the length of the spring saddle and add to the spring pack with a new longer center bolt. They should be long enough so the Ubolts keep them captured and can't possibly move/shift sideways. I'm sure spring leafs are drillable with a good bit.

 

Hey PaPa Smurf 79

Just curious, did you come up with a solution for your steering arm.