Good tip John!

 

John knows all about taping his nuts

 

And it's no fun getting out the broken drill bits that sometimes accompany being slammed around by the drill motor when the bit grabs.

 

I hate stepping on the damn things Charlie..

 

I remember back in my teens a friend of mine and I were drilling a hole in the bricks on top of our back door to install an outside light. Drilling from a step ladder we were taking turns because it was a tough go. My friend took over from me and the drill bit broke into one of those holes in the brick and the drill flipped him over the fence into our neighbors yard, thankfully he wasn't hurt but we had a good laugh over it...lol

 

I have used patience, oil, and a bimetal hole saw. ....

 

Cobalt drill bits help a LOT too.............

 

I've used them quite a bit here too John, very handy..you do have to ease them through..

 

Broach bits. ..... get them if you can. I have seen the difference.

 

Drilling a hole in a truck frame, drill had three handles. One on each side, one on top with a curve. Fit my stomach well.
One hand on each side handles, stomach on saddle handle on top. ... well. Sore for two weeks.

 

no John... I was talking about pushing the lock button with my left hand grip... not pushing on the whole drill... I agree... when I get close I ease up and let the bit pull itself thru.

 

OJF... using your jig, don't you get a lot of blow back toward you ?? or maybe not since most is going down thru the kerf... I'd like to see that jig, and I'd like to have that ESAB... mine is a 20+ year old Plasmarc... it's as big as a Millermatic welder.... probably 3' deep 1.5 wide by 30" high and heavy?? I've got wheels under it and it's like pulling a dead horse around...even with the wheels... I'd love to upgrade, but pension prevents it.

 

Blowback is only during the pierce, through the rest of the cut, there's no more than a kids sparkler.
We use drag tips on the gun, so you are right on the plate and the outside of the tip rests against the jig giving you a steady guide, consumables are kinda spendy, but we don't pay for them.
The unit is about the size of a Miller 110v buzz box, maybe slightly larger, runs off single or 3 phase.

 

Speaking of steps... We are currently machining thru 1/2 inch thick, non-conductive, G-10 end panels. Basically, this material is thin layered fiberglass / epoxy about 3' x 3' square. This material is pretty fragile so much care has to be taken to make sure we are making dust and not chips, or... chunks. These panels requires holes ranging from 0.0625 diameter to 1.250. For the bigger diameters we step in 1/8th increments.

As an FYI: We have a Bridgeport, PROMAX and an Index... but, we have modified the Index for special machining operations. My four engine lathes range from 60" to 200" between centers. No CNCs in my shop.

.

 

I know where to apply for a job if I move to Texas......
I know how to "work" those