Test light don't light, the check engine light in the dash flashes.
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Ohhh. I’ll check that when I get home. Also have the pleasure of doing the timing cover gasket....

 

Be super careful taking the long bolts out,of the water pump, they have a habit of breaking off
Take your time.
I would replace the water pump at the same time, even if your not having a problem, just because it has to come off. Better safe than sorry.
The new timing gasket set from felpro comes with a piece of oil pan gasket for the front of the oil pan. use some Permatex gasket maker in the corners for a better seal

 

Thanks for the heads up. I just replaced the water pump, because I wasn’t familiar with the Ford setup with the timing cover and figured it was the water pump leaking. After putting it back together, I realized, with the help of a pressure test and mirror, it is the timing cover gasket.

 

There is actually a plate in there that rusts out. Had that problem on my 94
nothing to do with the timing cover, but the back of the water pump
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So finally got to working on this job, and a couple other projects yesterday. Put the HD harness for the headlights and LED bulbs in. They work and look great. Took the cowl off, cleaned and re sealed it. Got the timing cover off, cleaned up, installed new seals. Started cleaning the engine and saw it wasn’t the gasket leaking. The block is cracked. . Not sure how this happened since the truck never overheated (to my knowledge). So now I’m trying to figure out what to do. Have a 350, 300 hp with a couple thousand miles on it I could put in the truck, but I’m sure that’s a headache. But Ford long blocks/engines are so expensive. . Anyone have suggestions?

 

Ok. I know it’s been a while, but that’s life with a project vehicle right?

Truck is running ok. Machine shop was able to weld the engine back to stop the leak. Putting the engine back in, I decided to do the egr and emissions delete. Mostly because all of it was rusted out or broken and I don’t want to spend money replacing all the components. I blocked the EGR port off and soldered the resistors into the plug to make the computer think the EGR was working.

The problem I’m having now is the truck doesn’t like idling, and coming from a stop, it’s a very careful game with the clutch and gas to make it so it doesn’t stall out. Even once the truck is going, it stumbles on itself and backfired some. I’m wondering if the distributor is going bad because when I was timing it I would pull the pin out of the harness sometimes and it would change RPM, like it’s supposed to, but other times it wouldn’t change at all. If the distributor was intermittently advancing the spark/not advancing; it seems like it could cause idle and run issues. Does that make sense? Anyway to test the distributor? I hate throwing money at parts ‘hoping’ to fix it.


Thanks!