The Wolf Cub "Assembly of Japanese Automobile require great peace of mind"

Discussion in 'Other Projects' started by Greywolf, May 1, 2015.

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  1. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    Tank is on the ground, the offending line is sure enough the one with a check valve in it. MORON this later - I need to wait for the sun to get lower in the sky and the temps drop back under 95 before I want to mess with it further, but I'd bet anything that the checkvalve needs to be outright replaced. There's no sense in trying to clean it.

    As far as that goes, I still don't see why there IS one on the fuel return line all the way back at the tank. Pressure is maintained in the line by the one-way valves or vanes in the fuel pump and the pressure regulator in the throttle body. It seems really weird to me...

    As in pointless.

    UPDATE:
    (31 minutes later according to my browser)

    "Couldn't help it, I went out and fetched the line and valve into the house where it's cool.

    The valve itself preforms as advertised - but THERE IS SOMETHING STUCK inside one of the short sections of rubber hose that connect to it. This is absolutely strange, but also a lot less expensive.

    You wouldn't believe what an OEM plastic part would have cost, I went back out to get it and look at it because a brand new aluminum bodied check valve woulda been half the price from JEGS or SUMMIT!!! So now I'm thinking use some of the new transparent line I got a month ago on this part so I have a visual check option as well.

    ~I'd be putting it back together right now if I could find the whole box of various sized hose clamps I had around here...

    **Parts added to AMAZON Wish List. Saturday after this I'll be sending for a hundred of each 5/16'' stainless clamps, and 3/8"ID by 5/8"OD rubber grommets.

    ~That's the way I do things like that. I like having parts drawers.


    I made the decision months ago to replace all the rubber lines in the machine with new, the low pressure lines and vacuum lines are all going to be this SWEET looking translucent polyurethane. The old nasty lines are laid across the top for comparison:
    [​IMG]#ad


    I have them in several sizes now, and the high pressure ones will hopefully be dressed up with braid.
     
  2. Paul Masley Founding Member

    Wolfie, I have a question and trying to be a smart ass. Why did you leave the R/R wheel on? For balance. hahahahaha

    I really know the reason, let's see if anyone else does.
     
  3. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    Hint: Guess which side all the lines and the tank filler are on.

    I could have put this thing back together yesterday if I wanted to use plain old rubber tubing, but the poly lines are both thinner and more rigid than rubber line. The stock spring clamps that came off wouldn't fit.

    Poly is tuffer stuff - think kevlar. It is semi-clear so in one sense it's a dress-up, but in another it is possible to see what is in it. I wish there was a strong enough version to handle high pressure.

    The only worry I have is what happens in a hot engine bay. Because of that I may restrict it's use forward to vacuum and other non-fuel lines until I see whether it comes close to melting. If the vac lines don't get sucked flat, then I think I can trust it to run cold fuel through.

    I plan to ventilate the E-bay a lot more than stock anyhow.
     
  4. Paul Masley Founding Member

    The side with the tire!
     
  5. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    Is it alive yet Wolfie?
     
  6. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    *loud clank sound is heard*

    [​IMG]#ad


    Only reason to pull the wheel off was room to work, the machine is currently in an AWP status.

    I need to get a small 'BULK' quantity of that size fuel line while I'm at it, I've about used up what I have and it seems to be a pretty common size.

    I also want some braided high pressure line. Since this happened, it all needs to be updated before I stuff that thing back where it came from. I'm not going to play 'musical gas tanks' with this thing farther down the road.
     
  7. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    Parts are now on order, skipped the grommets because the old one is still good - and can be got at with little hassle.

    For high pressure line I went with braided 1/4" ID woven metal outer jacket. The low pressure 1/4" ID I sent for is in a 25' length, from Orange Custom Cycle. CONFIRMED: It IS polyurethane.

    If and when it runs, I will paint the valve cover to match the body and line theme. I decided to drag my heals on that until I had a confirmed "GRIPE" kill and all of it was working.

    I get that mindset from the MIL - you follow a sunnabitch down all the way until you are 100% sure - and then add decoration.

    In theory - 5 to 8 days, and I'll be in motion again. That's when the package is expected
    *AMAZON has been very good to me
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2015
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  8. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    Somebody please pass me the "ID-10-Tango award", when I ordered the low pressure lines, I also ordered 1/4" high pressure line, and that ain't it...
    Thank you - I want to glare at that on my trophy shelf for a while.

    The delivery lines are 1/16th larger for some reason. I guess I just got line happy, if that's a phrase...
    Quarter inch on the brain or some damned thing...

    I sent for the correct size of steel braided line tonight, after first checking how much total length I was going to consume in the engine bay and on the tank.

    There needs to be six inches, maybe eight, for use on the tank itself. In the engine bay I needed about eight inches - I have six feet of 5/16th ID on it's way to me with some nice looking trick clamps for up in front where people might one day see them..


    Sometimes my oversights positively gall me...

    "Hello - GOD? Can I get this car running once and for all please? Thank you..."
    AMEN
     
  9. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    So it's like a Ford!
    5/16 supply, 1/4" return.

    That means you can use a Ford Fuel injection fuel filter in line! 5576beb7457ee486b6609c9bc0fa885b.jpg #ad
     
    56panelford likes this.
  10. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    I already replaced the filter - but that would have been good to know, I bet the ford part is lots cheaper pricewise. Also the one in it is mounted vertically and has the weirdest metal inlet and outlet design I ever saw.

    f3f3b3a54c37b4d87d38870e3db4940e.jpg #ad

    That reminds me - to do the whole thing I have to dismount that and put new line on it too.

    ~But I'll never have to mess with it again.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
  11. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    I have all of my supplies now - commencing tomorrow morning I intend to put all of the fuel system issues away.
    ~Might take a couple of days if it rains or gets hot again.

    Electronics will be the next study, but if it runs I'll assemble the front clip I fabricated.
     
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  12. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    Full speed ahead.....................

    Looking forward to seeing you with wheels again
     
    56panelford likes this.
  13. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    Such a simple seeming thing, but if you don't have the right parts you have to wait until you do, going ahead with make-do repairs always has a bad end.

    The high pressure line from the in-tank pump has been redone with high pressure line jacketted with stainless steel braid.

    All of those pretty blue lines are translucent polyurethane designed and intended for fuel, and the clamps I finally got fit perfect.

    [​IMG]#ad


    Poly-U lines are a bit more rigid than rubber, and will be used for vacuum lines for that reason.
    The tank is now mounted back in the car, and I will finish connecting the lines in the cool of tomorrow morning.

    The check valve that I originally suspected of being the cause of all this grief is the item at the center top - with the orange end towards the inflow. Why there even IS one is still a mystery in my mind. But it sure doesn't look like it's worth forty dollars to me.

    *There is no circumstance I can think of in which fuel will go back up that line in the other direction - AIR in the line would relax the check valve... So what the hell is it even there for? An overfilled tank?

    I'm also shooting black rust preventive paint out of a rattle can on the bottom of the tank because after all this, I'll be damned if I want the bottom of this summitch to rust out and get pinholes in it!

    * I shot the above pic with one hope and a prayer -
    That it is the last time anyone will ever see the top of this 'Juice Can'...
     
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  14. Greywolf Vet Zone Staff Alumni Founding Member

    Got some ups and downs to report -
    It occurs to me that after finding the blocked line I never checked the fitting on the tank itself, which may have been abysmally stupid on my part...

    I buttoned everything up and ran a pressure test today, and it read what it was supposed to.
    For about as long as it took for the return line to fill up - then it shot to the top of the gauge again.


    Since everything else works or is clear - it HAS TO BE the fitting on the upper right corner of the tank above, something I took for granted.
    God dammit! Now I have to drop the whole assembly again.

    It may also be that more crap washed down the lines and lodged somewhere, and over and over again I look at that check valve and keep thinking that there really isn't any reason for it to BE there.

    ~ I'm also thinking about installing a fuel filter on the return line where I can get at it and throw it away later
     
  15. dustybumpers Article Contributor Founding Member

    I had a 67 mustang did this to me. drove me crazy.
    Man I feel for you on this one!
     
    56panelford likes this.
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