The dash has all 4 gauges, no warning lights. None of the gauges worked. I removed the gauge ass'y to check it out.
I found the printed circuit torn/broken at either the power or ground, at the gauge regulator. Nothing I can do with this. I shopped online and ordered a new printed circuit from Dennis Carpenter. With the truck came another gauge ass'y with warning lights. I would have used it to not spend the money on the new printed circuit but, the wire harness plug receptacles are different. Some pic's below.

Torn printed circuit,


Receptacle for all gauges


Receptacle for warning lights.


Back of both panel ass'y's, warning lights top and all gauges, bottom

 

No F350's with factory installed 4WD until 1979.

 

Thank You Bill on clarifying NO factory F-350 4X4 till 79. The lumber and building supply I was mechanic for 30 years had a 79, F-350 4X4, single rear wheels. They were like ( my description) super singles and it was sorta a Low Rider, Not like a hi-boy. It was a platform-stake body.

 

1953/79 F350's with DRW (Dual Rear Wheels) were only available as a cab & chassis, or with factory installed flat and stake beds.

1980 was the first year that F350's with DRW were available with a pickup bed, Stylesides only.

 

So since last time, I've put a rebuild kit in the carb with a bit of a glitch. Disassembly for me is just take it apart and remove anything the carb cleaning dip solvent might destroy. I DO USE, the exploded parts diagram for assembly. For those who have not rebuilt a carb, there is in the kit, an instruction sheet with a numbered breakdown of all the parts and you can use it for taking apart and reassembly. Everything shown on the diagram, IS NOT USED, ON ALL CARBS, there are many variations, for different applications.

About the glitch mentioned. When it came to installing the new float needle and seat....there was none in the kit. There was 2 identical packages of small parts, but no needle and seat. Now what to do, they're always included in a rebuild kit. I had ordered 2 kits. I opened the second kit and was complete with needle and seat and......a lot more gaskets than the first kit. I will drop a line to Rock Auto about it not having all parts in it BUT, it's not there fault. They're only selling it, they didn't produce it. If they want do something about it, fine, I'm not going to worry about the $15.00.

The Choke pull off diaphragm has a couple pin holes in it, they don't come with kits. I have 2 other 2100 carbs that came with the truck, I'm going to see it one of those is salvageable. Pic below of the Carb with the pull off just sitting on it.

 

I mentioned none of the gauges worked and the printed circuit back of the gauge cluster was torn and de laminated at the gauge regulator. I installed the new printed circuit and I chose the cluster bezel from the idiot light panel as it looked in better shape. I still need to switch the gauges cluster to the other bezel and choose the better, clearer lens. Then I'll get down to the truck and install it and the carb and fire it up, hoping all will work properly.


I didn't put the bulbs in yet, as I want to bench test them all to be sure of working and not have to remove the cluster again.

 

D0AZ-9J549-C .. Choke Pull Off Diaphragm (Motorcraft CM-1283) / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO in Cincinnati OH has 12 = 800-543-4959

CARPENTER NOS PARTS in Concord NC has 27 = 800-476-9653

At one time, available from auto parts stores.

 

Thank You Bill,

 

So back at the Wannabe today. Put Inst back together, all bulbs clean and working, ready to put back in the truck.

On the Carb. Was able to get good choke pull off from an extra carb. The Choke cover and spring from extra Carb was set at correct index and choke closed OK. The other two covers the springs seemed very fatigued and way off index to be accurate. I saved them with misc 2100 parts.

Going to post some pics and text on the adjustments. Gonna try full size pics, see if i can choose size not to be overpowering. Learning curve for me.

Need to say, these two rebuild kits seem to reference Cars Only. All the settings and specs there is NO MENTION OF the 360 engine and the last reference of a 352 was 1964 and the 352 was not truck available till 65 I believe. So I chose the 390 with manual transmission. I did 4 adjustment/settings, some just a check and no change needed. Front page notes, Idle Air Mixture Needle Valves, 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.


Dry Float Setting 7/16". There is a wet setting, will not due unless a problem. Pump Rod Adjustment, put back as found. THEN, reading text, holes A,B,C,D, interesting it says use A&B for Summer time, less stroke of accelerating pump. C&D for Winter time, more stroke of pump. Doubt anyone would be changing that summer or winter, LOL. BUT I CAN BE ANAL about things. Mine was set at D so, I moved it to C. Now depending on how well this engine runs/performs, as far as a hesitation on accelerating, I will try B or A for as the lighter the shot of gas from the pump might make some kind of less gas usage. A report to make later down the road.
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Next was the Choke Pull Down test. I did not change it. It is what the diaphragm I took from one of the other carbs does. #ad

Next was the Fast Idle Cam Adjustment. I had messed with adjustment before so I had to do it. DID I DO IT RIGHT, I Hope So, as it took me a bit to understand how to too.
Then Set the Auto Choke housing to 1 Rich.
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There are 2 more adjustments to check and not tonight, not thinking clearly at this point